Comestiblog

Happy New Year!

"Seasoned" Greetings 2017

Rarely Expressed Well: Lay vs. Lie

I should begin with the disclaimer that this article hasn't anything to do with comestibles.  It could be considered food for thought, however.  Why do most Americans say "lay" when they really mean "lie?"  Hearing this ubiquitous misusage occasionally brings out the curmudgeon in me.

Let's lay down the fact that both are verbs:  lay is transitive;  lie is intransitive.  In other words, lay takes an object, lie does not.  For example, when I "lay me down to sleep," I lay myself down to slumber or simply lie down.  The converse is incorrect:  I neither lie myself down nor lay down.  (To "lay down," quite literally, is to engage in the placement of soft, fluffy feathers.)  Also, Wall Street can lay, not lie, an egg.  Consider, as a mnemonic, the verbs raise (transitive) and rise (intransitive):  one can raise oneself or rise; the sun does not raise, it also rises.

Some of the confusion may lie in the fact that lay also happens to be the past tense of lie.  In this context, "I lay down" refers to a past horizontal position of mine.  Confused?  Perhaps the following will help:  I lie in bed right now; I lay in bed yesterday.  Another factor that may lie in the way of correct usage is the homonym that refers to mendacity.  In this sense, a person who lies in bed could be said to prevaricate in the sack.

Of course, neither the past tense of lie nor the aforementioned transitive verb has much to do with the homophonous lei, a floral wreath or necklace.  (In Hawai'i, receiving a lei refers the acquisition of flowers, not the surrender thereof.)  Furthermore, lie should not be confused with lye, an alkaline liquid used to make soap.

To complicate matters further, the past participles of lay and lie are laid and lain, respectively.  Thus, a hen lays or is laying eggs, but she laid or has laid them previously.  I lie or am lying at present, and I lay or have lain in the past.

The following table lays it all out.

Present		Past
Tense	Participle	Tense	Participle
lay	laying	laid	laid
lie	lying	lay	lain

Additional examples:

Incorrect:  Let sleeping dogs lay.
Correct:  Let sleeping dogs lie.

Incorrect:  You should lay low for a while.
Correct:  You should lie low for a while.

Incorrect:  She laid on the hammock.
Correct:  She lay on the hammock.
Correct:  She has lain on the hammock.

Incorrect:  There's a large object laying across our path.
Correct:  There's a large object lying across our path.

Incorrect:  Lay down!
Correct:  Lie down!

Incorrect:  He laid in waiting.
Correct:  He lay in waiting.

Incorrect:  As I lay here now, I think of when I laid here yesterday and all the times I've laid here before.

Correct:  As I lie here now, I think of when I lay here yesterday and all the times I've lain here before.

If, without a lie, laying down the rules has laid to rest any confusion and allayed all concerns about laying and lying, an Olé! is in order.

Queens Taste 2016

The rain and chill did not deter the roughly 600 foodies who descended upon the New York Hall of Science on 3 May to sample the celestial offerings of more than 50 restaurants, beverage purveyors, and dessert makers at Queens Taste 2016.  The Queens Economic Development Corporation and the Queens Tourism Council celebrated the fifteenth anniversary of their gustatory showcase—a yearly event in which to meet and eat, as well as schmooze and booze.

The saporific samples of New York's most diverse borough ranged from creamy to crunchy, fiery to flaky, and savory to sweet.  Below is Queens Taste 2016 through the lens and so-called senses of Comestiblog:

The Venue:

Central Pavilion, New York Hall of Science

The Video:

The Appetizers and Entrées:

My initial experiment in the Hall of Science's Central Pavilion included a couple of sweet-and-sour savories from Kristin Quattrone's Q Events, a catering and events concern.  The flavor contrasts of the Coconut-Pineapple Fried Rice Ball (encapsulating crispy pancetta), and the Ginger Chicken Pineapple Cup yielded successful results.

Coconut-Pineapple Fried Rice Ball from Q Events

Another caterer, DelishNY, also served a sweet-and-savory combination: Seared Tuna with a Sesame Soy Glaze, presented on an edible spoon.  In addition to his appealing tuna, Chef Joseph Marchisotta prepared a Truffle Herb Risotto.

DelishNY's Seared Tuna with Sesame Soy Glaze

Chef Gus of Hilton New York JFK Airport in Jamaica prepared a beautiful Shrimp-and-Cashew Cabbage Slaw in a phyllo cup, topped with a soy-balsamic glaze.

Shrimp-and-Cashew Cabbage Slaw from Hilton NY JFK Airport

Thai Rock of Rockaway Beach rocked it with steamed Thai Dumplings, filled with peanuts and turnip.

Thai Rock's Thai Dumplings

Chef Greg Profeta of LIC's Alobar elevated a humble Polish staple into something nearly lofty with his homemade Potato Pierogies with Scallion Crème Fraîche.

Alobar's Homemade Potato Pierogi with Scallion Crème Fraîche

Who doesn't love bacon?  What about sweets?  The Astor Room at Kaufman Astoria Studios in Astoria married bacon with sugar-in-the-raw and added Cajun seasoning to spice up the Candied Bacon honeymoon.

The Astor Room's Candied Bacon

Bareburger's organic Birkshire Beer-Braised Bacon Slider with Stout Onions and Spicy Mustard on a Pretzel Bun was a mouthful in both name and flavor.

Bareburger's Beer-Braised Bacon Sliders

As usual, the sliders from Woodside's F. Ottomanelli Burger & Belgian Fries were top-notch.

Neir's Tavern of Woodhaven, "the most famous bar you've never heard of," returned with their popular pub grub: Cotton Candy Wings, BBQ Jack Wings, Pulled-Pork Sliders, and Swedish Meatballs.  Consumed quite by accident, the cotton candy-flavored wings were a rather pleasant surprise.

Neir's Tavern's Pulled Pork (left) and Chicken Wings (right)

After filing an application with the Landmarks Preservation Commission (LPC) last August, Neir's owner Loycent Gordon held a rally on 7 May to have the historic 1829 building declared a New York City landmark.  I wish him Godspeed.

Swedish Meatballs (left) and Pulled Pork (right)

Zenon Taverna, a Greco-Cypriot restaurant in Astoria, returned with a couple of new dishes along with an old favorite.  I navigated the meze by trying all three.  Their homemade Hummus was garnished with sliced Kalamatas and served in a phyllo cup.  Its fresh flavors were augmented nicely by the slight saltiness of the olives.  The Halloumi Sandwich—char-grilled Cypriot goat-sheep cheese, sliced cucumber and tomato on pita bread—was uncomplicated yet delicious.

Zenon Taverna's Hummus in Phyllo Cups

Cyprus Halloumi Sandwich

Seasoned with oregano, pepper, bay leaves, and drizzled with olive oil, vinegar, and lemon, Zenon's Grilled Octopus continues to be a perennial favorite. (Eight is not enough.)

Grilled Octopus

The Kabobs from Pa-Nash, a Eurosoul (Mediterranean, Caribbean, and soul food fusion) eatery in Rosedale, were among the highlights of this year's Queens Taste.  Chef Henry Lopez seasoned the skewered chicken, pork, and goat beautifully to impart robust flavors and plenty of heat.

Pa-Nash's Kabobs (Clockwise, from top): Chicken, Pork, Goat

The flautists at Woodside's La Adelita flaunted their popular Mexican flutes along with guacamole, and a tasty Cactus Salad.

La Adelita's Flautas (left) and Cactus Salad (right)

Guacamole

Also from Woodside, and also serving cactus, De Mole rolled out Pork and Grilled Cactus Tacos.

De Mole's Pork and Grilled Cactus Tacos

Chef Carlos Valez of Astoria's Sabor De Cuba offered an authentic taste of Cuban vintage clothing with his Ropa Vieja.

Sabor De Cuba's Ropa Vieja

At the next table, Nest of Richmond Hill served four samples of their homestyle Indo-Caribbean and Chinese cooking: Bunjal Chicken Liver, Jerk BBQ Boneless Chicken, Boneless Curry/Bunjal Chicken, and Seafood Fried Rice.

Nest's Jerk BBQ Boneless Chicken

Boneless Curry/Bunjal Chicken

Seafood Fried Rice

There were also a few kosher offerings.  The first, from the Masbia Soup Kitchen Network, was Chulent, a traditional Jewish stew of meat, beans, and potatoes.  Masbia provides a restaurant-style environment to afford a sense of dignity to those in need, because "a hot meal always needs a touch of warmth."

Chulent from Masbia Soup Kitchen Network

Rego Park's Marani Glatt Kosher Georgian Restaurant, a newcomer to Queens Taste, served a couple of tasty dishes: Ostri, a beef stew with pickles and onions, as well as Chahohbili, a traditional chicken stew.

Marani's Ostri

Chahohbili

The Libations:

There was no shortage of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.  Cider, beer, and wine flowed freely.

Not Your Father's Ginger Ale from Small Town Brewery

The Wine Room of Forest Hills, in association with Verity Wine Partners, poured an interesting variety of reds, whites, and a rosé.  The tastes comprised Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige, Italy), Montinore Estate Borealis 2014 (Willamette Valley, Oregon), Dio Fili Xynomavro Rosé 2015 (Macedonia, Greece), Ktima Mitravelas Red on Black 2014 (Nemea, Greece), Altovinum Evodia Old Vine Garnachia (Calatayud, Spain), and Michael Gassier Nostre Païs Rouge 2013 (Costières de Nîmes, France).

Selections from the Wine Room of Forest Hills

Brooklyn Winery dispensed samples from a bit closer to home: Chardonnay-Unoaked 2014 (Finger Lakes, N.Y.), Old Vine Zinfandel 2013 (Lodi, CA), and Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (Sonoma Valley, CA).

Brooklyn Winery's (Unoaked) Chardonnay

Old-Vine Zinfandel (left) and Cabernet Sauvignon (right)

LIC's SquareWine & Spirits poured a couple of refreshing 2015 French rosés: Les Violettes (Côtes du Rhône) and Georges Vigouroux Gouleyant (Côtes du Lot).

Maegan Kovatch (left) and Lucy Spain (right) of Square Wines

2015 Rosés: Les Violettes (left) and Gouleyant (right)

The Desserts:

Shake Shack, which opened in Queens Center Mall on 30 December last year, celebrated their Queens Taste debut sweetly and effervescently with Root Beer Floats.

Shake Shack's Root Beer Float

Hannah Maldonado and Matthew McNamee of 8 Bit Bakeshop (whom I met at the Entrepreneur Space Five Alive celebration last month) offered samples of their video game-inspired treats.

Confections from 8 Bit Bakeshop

Bundts NYC, another vendor from the E-Space, returned with more miniature bundt-style pound cakes.  CEO and Bundtmeister Randall Grant bakes his wares to order and for specific events.

Bundts NYC: Chocolate Chip (left) and Blueberry (right)

Caterer EJ Sydell served gluten-free, fresh-fruit Bucklecakes, yummy coffee cakes from Esta-Joy's Kitchen.

Fresh Fruit Bucklecakes from Esta-Joy's Kitchen

The desserts from Rudy's Bakery & Café gave little indication of having come from a German bakery that opened in 1934.  Pastry Chef Cristina Nastasi bakes a wide assortment of contemporary desserts at one of the few remaining German holdouts in Ridgewood.  The confectioner exhibited her variety with delicious sweets comprising Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, Alfajores, and Espresso Cheesecake.

From Rudy's Bakery & Café: Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp

Alfajores

Espresso Cheesecake

It seems fitting somehow that The Paleo Factory engaged in Mud-slinging amid this election year.  After his Taste debut last year, Sam Friedman (whose name is mud—in a good sense), returned with Chocolate (flavored with raw organic cacao powder), Vanilla (flavored with Madagascar beans and pure vanilla extract) and Coffee (flavored with organic arabica) Mud he makes from "ingredients that come from the earth."  To wit, he blends the flavor elements with coconut milk, cashews, and dates to yield tasty cold treats that are not too sweet.

The Paleo Factory's Chocolate, Vanilla, and Coffee Mud

DF Mavens dished up a couple of their marvelous dairy-free frozen desserts: Madagascar Vanilla Bean (coconut milk) and New Orleans Salted Praline (soy milk).

New Orleans Salted Praline from DF Mavens

Another frozen Madagascar Vanilla Bean offering, this one a gelato, was served by Astoria's Desserts That Matter.  The "boutique ice cream manufacturer" also scooped out samples of Dulce de Leche.

Desserts That Matter: Gelati

The Conclusion:

Once again, Queens Taste was a stellar event for noshing and networking at the New York Hall of Science.  As ever, my most profound thanks to Seth Bornstein and Rob MacKay.

Queens Taste 2016

New York Hall of Science
47-01 111^th Street
Corona, N.Y.   11368-2950   (map)

Tuesday, 3 May 2016, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

By train:  to 111 St or LIRR to Mets-Willets Pt

Links:

http://thequeenstaste.com/
https://www.facebook.com/QueensTaste
http://www.queensny.org/qedc
https://twitter.com/qedc
https://www.facebook.com/queensedc
http://www.itsinqueens.com/

Proceeds support the Queens Economic Development Corporation's ongoing efforts to attract, create, and maintain jobs in the borough through business services, neighborhood development, the Entrepreneur Space (food-and-business incubator), and marketing attractions through the Queens Tourism Council and the It’s in Queens and Discover Queens brands.

Five Alive: QEDC Entrepreneur Space Celebrates Its Fifth Anniversary

The Queens Economic Development Corporation celebrated the fifth anniversary of its Entrepreneur Space in Long Island City on 30 March 2016 with a lively networking party that featured spicy, savory, and sweet food samples from some 30 vendors.  There was much to celebrate: the incubator has helped more than 500 small businesses, generated $6 million in revenue, and created more than 100 jobs in its five-year history.

Five Alive: Cooks Kickin' It In Queens video

The Entrepreneur Space opened officially on 19 January 2011.  Sponsored by the NYC Economic Development Corporation, the 12,500-square-foot space comprises a fully equipped commercial kitchen, offices, and classrooms.  In addition to providing space and equipment, QEDC offers business counseling, technical assistance, and financial classes on site.  The E-Space also provides an area for culinary skills training to The Fortune Society, an organization that supports successful reëntry from prison.

Matt Swanston

Beginning in Studio 4, my first taste was a St. Louis-style gooey butter cake from Gooey&Co.  Since introducing his Gateway City staple to Gotham (via Smorgasburg) in 2014, Matt Swanston has never looked back.  The St. Louis native makes his cakes with organic, all-natural ingredients.

Gooey&Co: Butter Cake

I made the transition from sweet to savory with samples of DILL-icious Salsa Verde (medium) and Fire Roasted Red Salsa from the husband-and-wife team of Danny and Bella Mayans of Casa Maya.

Casa Maya: DILL-icious Salsa Verde (medium)

At the next table, Phoebe's Sourdough Bakery gave rise to my next nibble.  Phoebe Goh's sourdough bread varieties—SuperSpelt, SimplyRye, and Omega3Bomb—are made from ancient grains that are grown locally, certified organic, and non-GMO.

Phoebe's Sourdough: SuperSpelt, SimplyRye, and Omega3Bomb

And the sweet cycle begins anew …

Andrea "Sweetcicle" Patel

What appeared to be tortiglioni were actually confections handcrafted by Andrea "Sweetcicle" Patel.  Sweetcicle's Soft Chews are available in chew, er, two flavors: Meyer Lemon and Peach with a hint of Elderflower.

Soft Chews: Meyer Lemon and Peach with a hint of Elderflower

Little Luna cookies were inspired by a little girl with type 1 diabetes.

8 Bit Bakeshop: Little Luna

8 Bit Bakeshop's pastry chef Hannah Maldonado and Matthew McNamee created these special treats for their diabetic daughter, Luna—and others with food allergies and special dietary needs.

Little Luna: Sweet Vanilla & White Rice Cookies

On to Kitchen A …

My first sample in this large space was a snack from itskale.  The chips, made from kale and chia seeds, and baked with organic ingredients, certainly seemed healthful.

itskale: Kale and Chia Seed Chips

Yu Bakery offered some healthful snacks as well.  Using a modified Brazilian recipe, Kurt Schwarzbauer and his wife, Daniela, bake their yucca-based puffs and buns without artificial colors, chemicals, and preservatives.  Because yucca is naturally free of gluten and GMOs, YuPuffs and YuBuns contain neither.

YuPuffs: Parmesan (left) and Coconut Oil & Flaxseed (right)

Just out of the oven, these warm Cheese YuBuns melted in my mouth.

Yu Bakery: Cheese YuBuns

Chef Sherri Royes prepares soul food and fusion dishes with a focus on catering.  Her Citrus Glazed Chicken, with its Asian-inspired sweet and spicy flavors, showcased her culinary creativity.

Chef Sherri's Catering: Citrus Glazed Chicken

The bruschetta from Little Pleasures, a dining event and catering concern, was smokin'—literally.  Scott McCullough's antipasto was prepared with smoked sea salt, seared with fresh feta on top, and infused with hickory smoke.  Where were the mirrors?

Little Pleasures: Smoked Bruschetta

Around the corner, British Guyana-inspired food samples—Chicken Curry, Roti, Chicken and Vegetable Patties, and Almond Cookie Cakes—from Veda's Cakes and Catering beckoned.

Veda's Cakes & Catering: Tastes of British Guyana

In Kitchen B, across the aisle, Judy's Knishes offered a vegetarian taste of old New York.

Judy's Knishes

At the neighboring table, emphasizing healthful ingredients and "no empty calories," Lydia Fiorentino's baked goods tasted every bit as good as they looked.

Fiorentino's L Baked Goods

Of course, beer goes with everything.  Student-run Bayside Brewery poured some fine suds to accompany my cake.

Kitchen C, in the center of the large space, offered dumplings, pretzel balls, and a witch's brew.

Michael Zhang and daughter Sylvia

Asian Farmer's dumplings contain all-natural, local ingredients only—from the vegetables to the grass-fed beef, pasture-raised pork, and free-range chicken.  Owner Michael Zhang prepares them by hand using recipes and techniques passed down from generations of dumpling makers.

Asian Farmer: Vegan, Pork, and Chicken Dumplings

Pretzel Man Mike Panara Jr. rolled out cheese-stuffed, soft pretzel balls.  He makes six flavors in all, and sells them to bars and restaurants in New York.

Forest Witch teas are based on the Wiccan belief that nature possesses magical powers.  Thus, Stephanie Sanz's tea blends comprise herbs that have particular magical properties in common.  Additionally, a unique incantation is affixed to the back of each package to facilitate casting a spell before drinking the tea.

Forest Witch: Magical Teas

Over in Kitchen D, a familiar vendor served a familiar dessert along with one that was new to me.  Pilar de Guzman won top honors at Queens…A Taste of the World in 2011 (video) for her Date and Walnut Thins, known in the Philippines as "Food for the Gods."

Pilar de Guzman

While I don't wish to seem impious, I found Bonne Fête's Apple Cake to be just as heavenly as the Date-and-Walnut bar.

Bonne Fête Baking: Apple Cake

To the best of my knowledge, Biggie's Crack Toffee hasn't anything to do with plumbers or cocaine.  It has everything to do, however, with Stephanie Golden, innovative toffee, and a large cat.

Stephanie Golden

Biggie's thin, crackly, crunchy treats are "not your grandmother's toffee."  (Full disclosure: my grandmother did not make toffee.)  Several flavors were available for the tasting: Toasted Almond, Toasted Pecans & Bourbon, Pomegranate, Espresso, and Peanut Butter & Wild Blueberries—each speckled with sea salt.

Biggie's Crack Toffee: Espresso (left) and Peanut Butter & Wild Blueberries (right)

In the classroom space, Megan Sipe danced her way into my sweet tooth.  The colorful choreographer-chocolatier steps into cacao to create a multisensory experience called Chocolate Dances.

Megan Sipe

The tasting portion included three dark-chocolate Wild Women Mediants: Zoey (ginger, toasted coconut flakes, pumpkin seeds), Michelle (pistachios, sea salt), and Rachel (almonds, sea salt, cherries).

Chocolate Dances: Wild Women Mediants

After a taste of Wild Women chocolates, what could be better than a little more caffeine?  COFFEED poured samples of cold-brewed Burundi, their medium-roast house blend, imported from Africa.  More than a coffee roaster, COFFEED is a charity-minded food-and-beverage company that supports the communities around its stores.

COFFEED

Sergey Golosinkiy, co-founder of Oaks & Co Foods, served diminutive pancakes to accompany my cup of joe.  The tasty, high-protein flapjacks—free of gluten, soy, and GMOs—went like hotcakes.

Oaks & Co Foods: Protein Pancake Mix

At the next table, I spotted another familiar face.  Rosangela Arnold introduced me to her yucca-based, gluten-free Viva Natural pão de queijo (cheese bread) at the first E-Space anniversary celebration four years ago (video).

On this occasion, she crafted little sandwiches from her cheese rolls, filling them with a choice of salami, dulce de leche, or smoked wild salmon.

Viva Natural: Cheese Roll Sandwiches

To end my classroom visit on a sweet note, I tried Buenos Angie's Argentine Alfajores (dulce de leche cookies).

Buenos Angie's Argentine Alfajores

One of my favorite vendors, Little Bird Curious Confections, has left the building.

Corey Meyer

I first met owners Corey and Sarah Meyer at Queens Taste 2013 (video).  They started at the E-Space in May of that year, whereupon, they tweaked their recipes and learned how to transform a treat they made at home into a product that could be mass produced.  In the incubator, the Meyers honed their marketing skills, refined their packaging, and developed a professional website.

Little Bird Curious Confections: FIRE BITES

Over time, they added staff as well as shifts.  In the past year, demand for their FIRE BITES has risen so sharply that Corey and Sarah have outgrown the Entrepreneur Space and, consequently, moved into their own space.

Milk and Dark Chocolate Sea Salt FIRE BITES

The Little Bird is now fully fledged and has left the nest; may it spread its wings and soar.

Entrepreneur Space

36-46 37^th Street
Long Island City, N.Y.  11101-1606  (map)

(718) 392-0025
(212) 452-1866

http://www.entrepreneurspace.org
https://www.facebook.com/EntrepreneurSpace
https://twitter.com/ESpaceNYC

By train:  to 36 St
By bus:  Q101

Happy New Year!

 

"Seasoned" Greetings 2015

Cranberry Wine with Turkey

Is it a great wine?  Hardly.  Nevertheless, Amherst Farm Winery's Cranberry "fruit-infused grape wine" (12% ABV) has found a place on my Thanksgiving table the last several years.

Tart and bright, this cute little wine really does taste of cranberries—an ideal pairing with roast turkey and all its accompaniments.  It can even offset the sweetness of a cloying cranberry sauce.  With its vivid color, this wine adds a festive cranberry tone to any Thanksgiving celebration.

Amherst Farm Winery

529 Belchertown Rd (Rte 9)
Amherst, MA   01002-2705  (map)

(413) 253-1400

http://www.amherstfarmwinery.com/
https://www.facebook.com/AFWinery/

National Cheesecake Day at Junior's

For more than sixty years, generations of New Yorkers have visited Junior's Restaurant to eat, kibbitz, and indulge in a slice of the fabulous cheesecake.  So popular was their dessert that, when the restaurant caught fire in 1981, horrified onlookers shouted, "Save the cheesecake!"  My most fabulous friends asked me to spread the word about their National Cheesecake Day celebration taking place a week from today.  On 30 July 2015, dine-in guests who order an entrée at any of the four Junior's locations will receive a slice of cheesecake (any variety) at half-price.  (One slice per guest.)

Junior's Restaurant

386 Flatbush Avenue Extension
Brooklyn, N.Y.  11201-5331  (map)

(718) 852-5257

By train:  to DeKalb Av
             or   to Nevins St

Please visit their website for other locations

http://www.juniorscheesecake.com/

Bastille Day on 60th Street 2015

Happy Bastille Day!  While la fête nationale is celebrated every year on le 14 juillet in France, FIAF's annual street fest took place two days ago in la Nouvelle-York.  Below is a sampling from this year's Bastille Day on 60^th Street.

Booths offering freshly prepared Gallic snacks and packaged foods lined the three blocks between Fifth and Lexington Avenues.

Simply Gourmand featured a number of items for the pantry, including the extra-spicy Amora L'Extra Forte Dijon mustard.  (The quotidian Amora is the analogous Gallic version of French's "classic" American yellow mustard.)

A notch or two higher is the delicious Maille, whose Cognac mustard is outstanding.  Other flavors include Noix, Bleu, Basilic, and Crème de Cassis de Dijon.

Merguez on the grill

Mange-ing merguez on le 14 is akin to eating hot dogs on the Fourth; having this grilled lamb sausage is de rigueur on Bastille Day.

While merguez is typically served within a sandwich stateside, the sausage is eaten sans bread—using knife and fork—in France.  Alas, in Le Souk's Franco-American adaptation, the baguette masked much of the flavor of the spicy little sausages.

Le Souk's merguez sandwich

As in Paris, there were crêpe stands everywhere.  Unlike Paris, however, these thin pancakes were considerably larger and far less delicate than their French cousins.

The most popular (and slowest) among the foregoing stands was that of the Crêpe Café, whose filling choices included traditional sugar, Nutella, ice cream, and the all-time French classic, PB & J.

Crêpe Café's culinary artists know the drill

Even after seeing how it was prepared, I rather enjoyed the simple butter sugar crêpe.

Butter sugar crêpe

Other sweets included the canelé, a Bordelais speciality.  This baked delight consists of a dark, caramelized shell encasing a moist, custard-like center.  In Bordeaux, it's often served with crème anglaise.

The sweet treats from Canelé by Céline were good enough to be served in Bordeaux.

Canelés, Salted Almond and Plain Mini Financiers

Vanilla Canelé

As always, the chocolatine, er, pain au chocolat from Olivier Dessyn's Mille-Feuille was excellent.

The pastries of Mille-feuille

Some tasty freebies …

Savory milk and dark chocolate samples from Magique

Cookie samples from S^t Michel

While the outdoor events were free, the Champagne & Chocolate Tasting and the Wine, Cheese, Cocktails, and Beer sampling required an entrance fee.

Bastille Day on 60^th Street

60^th Street between Fifth and Lexington Avenues
Manhattan

Sunday, 12 July 2015, 12:00 Noon till 5:00 P.M.

https://www.bastilledayny.com/

The Cake Lounge in Little Ferry, N.J.

When I received an invitation to try a brand new restaurant called The Cake Lounge in Little Ferry, New Jersey, I wasn't sure quite what to expect.  Walking past Palermo's Café & Bakery, and ascending the steps to the floor directly above it, I assumed this would be an intimate evening spot for desserts, drinks, and live music.  Ah, but this charming place turned out to be so much more than, well, a cake lounge.

With a nod to their native home in Sicily, the Bruno family established Palermo's Custom Cakes & Bakery some thirty years ago in the Garden State.  Having earned wide recognition for their superb confections over the decades, they felt it was a propitious time to extend their brand beyond cakes and pastries.  "We wanted to open up something where we could combine our background in sweets with the savory front-end [Italian] cuisine," co-owner Paolo Bruno explained, adding, "We wanted to keep it as authentic and as upscale as possible for the area."

Dining area with Cake Gallery and full-service bar in the background

Eclectic is perhaps best way to describe this contemporary Italian restaurant.  Though seemingly random, the disparate collection of elements in the dining room was curated, with careful attention to detail, to afford an exquisite setting for dinner, dessert, drinks, or, as was the case for my Comestaccomplice and me, a fabulous evening out.

Before we even looked at our menus, two important aspects of the overall experience revealed themselves.  First, the dining area was designed for the visual, physical, and auditory comfort of the diner.  There was an emphasis on contrasting materials and textures throughout; the interplay of different woods, granites, and limestone in various shades of cream and black, together with a skillful use of glass and mirrors, created a stunning yet calming environment.  Replicas of famous landmarks and a statue of Buddha stood out among the diverse sculptured confections on display in the unique Cake Gallery along the dining room's southern wall.  "We wanted it to be upscale contemporary with a bit of an urban chic feel to it," Mr. Bruno told us.  Grounding this setting was the creamy-soft leather upholstery of the chairs and banquettes.

Further punctuating the tone of casual opulence was the tasteful, live background music—comprising mostly Italian-American standards—that alternated between vocal and instrumental.  (On our Thursday visit, we were treated to the musical stylings of John Micalizzi.)  The only off-note in the vibe was the pair of televisions mounted over the bar—one tuned to sports news, the other to European football games.  A glass partition between the bar area and the dining room did little to abate the distraction of the large screens.

The second memorable aspect of our evening was the impeccable service.  We were greeted warmly and treated graciously.  After declining two tables, we were finally settled, most elegantly, into one of the best in the house: a semicircular six-top reminiscent of the golden age of Hollywood.  The headwaiter, Gennaro, came here from Sicily specifically to lend his hospitality skills to his family's new venture.  He and his assistant were flawless in their service; they were informative and solicitous without being obtrusive.  When one of us, attempting to exercise frugality, ordered an inexpensive wine, we were made to feel good about the selection.  While many other establishments patronize the patron at this juncture, Gennaro made us feel comfortable.

Video: Gennaro describes I Piatti del Giorno

Perhaps the best part of this agreeable atmosphere was the absence of the rarefied air that typically excludes all but a privileged few; in less than three months, The Cake Lounge has established itself as a welcoming place for all.  "We didn't want to create something that was outside of its own demographic," Mr. Bruno told us.  That sentiment was also reflected in the reasonable menu prices: generous appetizers and pasta dishes were priced in the teens; mains ranged from the low 20s into the 40s.

We began with complimentary bruschetta, an appetizing start to our sumptuous banchetto.

Bruschetta

One of the most telling aspects of any restaurant experience, at least for this diner, is the quality of the bread, and yes, the butter.  The Cake Lounge scored highly in this category.  The bread was crusty, creamy, and yeasty in proper proportion.  While I prefer olive oil with my bread, I simply had to taste the butter as well.  The burro had a rich, farm-fresh flavor, though possibly a grain too salty—but certainly not enough to lose points.

Stuffed Artichoke

Almost all our dishes were selected from the chef's menu.  Our starters, though quite sapid, did not really provide an accurate indication of what was to follow.  While the Stuffed Artichoke—a whole flower head, stuffed with Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, and garlic—was rather tasty, its unctuousness made the dish slightly heavy.

Caprese

The Caprese was presented as a tower of alternating fresh mozzarella and tomato slices, culminating in a crown of fresh basil leaves, with roasted peppers encircling its base.  This beautiful interpretation elevated a simple salad to artistic heights.  Because this starter was listed on the regular menu, I should like to try it again when tomatoes are in season.

Rack of Lamb alla Romana

Our secondi were truly a main event.  The Rack of Lamb alla Romana—brushed with Dijon mustard and sprinkled with seasoned bread crumbs—was outstanding.  Upon determining what rare meant at this restaurant, my dining partner ordered her lamb medium rare to ensure the rack would be red rather than blue.  It proved to be the right choice, for the doneness of the eight chops varied considerably—from medium on the outer ones to rare on the ones inside.  The meat was as tender as could be, imparting deeply grassy and pure flavors as it melted in the mouth.  While a mustard application can often overpower such a dish, the light touch of Dijon complemented the lamb's flavor in perfect measure.  A glass of Villa di Capezzana Carmignano—with its medium firm dark fruit, hints of smoke, and smooth tannins—was the perfect wine pairing for this viand.

Fillet of Salmon with artichoke hearts, Boursin, and bread crumbs

My Fillet of Salmon—topped with artichoke hearts, Boursin, and bread crumbs—was a pleasant departure from the usual preparations.  The creaminess of the seasoned cheese, together with the mild acidity of the Mediterranean thistle hearts, matched the rich flavors of the perfectly cooked salmon, without overwhelming them.  A glass of Primarius Pinot Noir—a light-medium-bodied Oregonian, with berry flavors and slight smokiness—was an exquisite wine partner to this fish dish.  As with the lamb, this generous serving was plated artistically with its accompanying mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables.  Both mains were as delightful visually as they were gustatorily.

To even think of forgoing dessert at The Cake Lounge would be utter folly.  One look at the tray of luscious dolci immediately overpowered any possible resistance we could have offered.

Dolci (l-r): Cannolo, Lobster Tail, Double Chocolate Cake with Ganache, and Tiramisù

Lobster Tail

My Comestaccomplice's initial reaction to the confectionery Lobster Tail was, "Wow, that's one serving?" After a very satisfying meal, it seemed almost too decadent to contemplate such an enormous portion.  Upon taking her first bite, however, any misgivings dissipated quickly.  This creamy crustacean was a marvelous marriage of flaky, buttery pastry with thick, rich whipped cream.  Its perfect sweetness was achieved by judicious restraint in the use of sugar; there was just enough to distinguish the dairy flavor of the cream from that of the crust.  While both elements were deep and rich, their flavors were clean and pure at the same time.  When dairy becomes even slightly old, it imparts a faint barnyard flavor—before turning sour.  The components of this sweet Tail were clearly fresh.

Lobster Tail with Espresso Martini and coffee

My companion's luxurious Espresso Martini was so seductive, she wanted to sip it all night.  Martinis are not only specialty cocktails here, they're also confections.  In addition to serving cake-inspired martini drinks, The Cake Lounge offers signature martini desserts—e.g., Strawberry Shortcake, Tiramisù, Nocciola, Red Velvet, etc.—crafted and served in martini glasses.

Tiramisù

For my final course, I chose the more traditional Tiramisù.  As with everything that preceded it, this lovely layered dessert was fashioned into a delicious work of art.  The flavors of the coffee-infused ladyfingers, creamy mascarpone custard, and cocoa, paired exquisitely with a cup of espresso and a large snifter of Sambuca con la Mosca (literally, "Sambuca with the fly").  There were indeed "flies" in my liqueur—in the form of toasted coffee beans.  It was a marvelous cap to a highly satisfying evening.

Tiramisù with Sambuca con la Mosca

Launched just eleven weeks ago, The Cake Lounge has enjoyed an auspicious start.  "As we move forward in the next few months, we'll be doing wine pairings, spirits pairings, cocktail pairings, along with dessert pairings," said Paolo Bruno, adding, "We're going to be introducing dessert flights with spirit, beverage, and cocktail flights … something you can't get anywhere else."  The future surely looks sweet.

The Cake Lounge

389 Liberty Street (CR 503), 2^nd Floor (NE corner Harding Pl)
Little Ferry, N.J.  07643-1008  (map)

(201) 336-9819

http://thecakelounge.com/
https://twitter.com/The_CakeLounge
https://www.facebook.com/thecakeloungenj
https://plus.google.com/115930657381864915451
https://www.pinterest.com/thecakelounge/

Queens Taste 2015

More than 600 hungry foodies rocketed their way to Flushing Meadows Corona Park for this year's Queens Taste at the New York Hall of Science, a vestige of the 1964 World's Fair.  With 66 tables showcasing 56 different purveyors of "the best food on the planet," the Queens Economic Development Corporation launched the thirteenth edition of its annual gustatory event on 12 May 2015—a stellar occasion in which to meet and eat.

This year, winning entries were chosen by popular vote; everyone who completed a ballot helped determine The People's Choice of Best Appetizer, Best Entrée, Best Dessert, and Most Refreshing Beverage.

Queens Taste 2015 video

Queens Taste 2015 welcomed several newcomers including Dan Frieber's carrot-based Tango Chile Sauce, an organic, piquant condiment with the potential to have myriad food partners.  The hot sauce certainly accompanied tortilla chips well.

Carrot-based Tango Chile Sauce

One of the sweet surprises of the evening was the highly addictive Amarena Fabbri.  This delightful treat, made from wild black cherries, traces its origins to 1905—in Portomaggiore, Italy, not Queens.  How dolce it is!

Wild Black Cherries of Amarena Fabbri

After its triumphant debut last year, Zenon Taverna returned armed, so to speak, with its famous Grilled Octopus (judged Best Entrée in 2014), along with Koupepia (stuffed grape leaves).  Stuffed with rice, and seasoned with tomato, mint, onion, parsley, and fresh lemon juice, Zenon's koupepia would have typically contained chopped pork—an ingredient excluded from these samples in order to include vegetarians.

Zenon Taverna's Grilled Octopus

Vegetarian Koupepia (stuffed grape leaves)

Chef Julio Velasquez's superb Steak Tartare from Bayside's Aperitif was the People's Choice of Best Appetizer—a rightly deserved distinction for this well prepared classic.

Best Appetizer: Aperitif's Steak Tartare

Chef Hugue Dufour of M.Wells in Long Island City rolled out an additional round of raw meat.  His delicious spherical servings of Angus Beef Tartare were accompanied by simple potato chips.

M.Wells's Beef Tartare meatball

Vinny Accardi's first Queens Taste was also a celebration of his first anniversary as chef and owner of Room 55 in Glendale.  (His 5 May graduation fifteen years ago from the Culinary Institute of America was the inspiration for the restaurant's name.)  Viewers of Hell's Kitchen may recognize him from the reality show's eighth season, in which he appeared as a contestant (video).  Vinny's Taste debut featured Chilled Cucumber Greek Yogurt Soup, Pork Belly and Fresh Ham (seasoned with honey and pickled fennel), and Milk Chocolate Mousse S'mores (with housemade crème de marshmallow).  The pork's sweet seasoning yielded flavors vaguely reminiscent of Chinese five-spice.

Clockwise (from top): Chilled Cucumber Soup, Pork Belly and Fresh Ham, Chocolate Mousse S'more from Room 55

The Deconstructed Chicken Caesar Salad from LIC's Dutch Kills Centraal left me feeling like an outsider to an inside joke.  This unusual diversion consisted of a romaine purée at its base, upon which a morsel of salt-cured chicken thigh, a garlic crouton, shredded Parmesan cheese, Caesar dressing, and bits of crumbled egg yolk were stacked.  While a little jest such as this was probably meant to amuse my gueule, it did little to humor my palate.

Dutch Kills Centraal's Deconstructed Chicken Caesar Salad

Mulan, a contemporary Asian restaurant situated on the second floor of Queens Crossing in Flushing, served attractive chicken patties.  Because my sample was cold, however, I was unable enjoy it fully.

Mulan's Asian Chicken Patty

Fushia, at the Wyndham Garden Long Island City, offered another taste of modern Asian cooking.  Their superior Pad Thai overshadowed their Sweet-and-Sour Chicken.

Fushia's Sweet-and-Sour Chicken (top) and Pad Thai (bottom)

Visitors to the Hall of Science witnessed an astronomical gastronomical line for one of the stars of this year's event.  Bareburger's sliders—mouthwatering organic, grassfed chopped beef, topped with blue cheese and bacon jam, unified harmoniously in a bun—earned this Queens-centric chainlet the People's Choice accolade for Best Entrée.  And yes, these delicious, all-natural little burgers were worth the wait.

Best Entrée: Bareburger's Beef Slider with Blue Cheese and Bacon Jam

Fairway served three types of slider: Grilled Chicken, Flank Steak, and Buffalo Chicken with Gorgonzola.

Fairway's Flank Steak Sliders

Just to the left of the sliders, tender, succulent Beef Tenderloin beckoned.  Topped with a squirt of Fairway BBQ sauce, this bite-sized, perfectly cooked cut of beef melted in my mouth.

Beef Tenderloin with Fairway BBQ Sauce

Of course, a slider from Woodside's F. Ottomanelli Burger & Belgian Fries was a must.  It was excellent, as always.

Frank Ottomanelli (left) and Michael Proano (right)

Also from Woodside, La Adelita served tasty Fried Tacos.

La Adelita's Fried Tacos

One can always count on Leo's Latticini to serve Mama's Special signature sandwich, Caprese Salad, and a number of other perennial favorites.  This year, Mama's of Corona (as it's known locally) introduced its version of Pizza Rustica, a delectable quiche-like pie, made with a variety of meats and cheeses.  Traditionally served at Easter, pizza rustica can be nevertheless enjoyed any time of year.  While there are many variants throughout Italy, Mama's is based on a family recipe from Bari.  It was a welcome addition to their annual offerings.

Mama's Special Sandwich: Peppered Ham, Salami, and Fresh Mozzarella

Insalata Caprese: Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato, and Basil

Pizza Rustica, Bari style

"Flushing's hidden gem" came out of hiding with a prominent table position this time around.  It was nearly impossible to miss Magna Ristorante's Letizia Barbetta and Eleonora Greco as they dished up their sapid Chicken Piccata (with lemon, capers, and artichokes) and Penne (with cheese, tomatoes, and artichokes).

Magna's Chicken Piccata and Penne

Although I had nearly reached my point of satiety, an irresistible broiled salmon-shrimp dish from Flushing's Piccolo Sogno reeled me in.  "Real Italian" Chef Maurizio's savory aquatic duo, enlivened by a sauce of white wine, lemon, and garlic, was truly a "little dream."

Piccolo Sogno's Broiled Salmon-and-Shrimp

Jamaica's O Lavrador returned with more tasty Iberian fare.  For this year's event, Chef Fernando Gomes prepared Seafood Paelha, along with Baked Clams and Bacon.  Owing to a food allergy, alas, I was limited to sampling the latter only.  Served in clam shells, the rich combination of mollusc and pig was satisfying but sinful.

O Lavrador's Baked Clams and Bacon

Food is merely one aspect of Neir's Tavern's considerable allure.  Established in 1829, "the most famous bar you've never heard of" is also one of the oldest in New York.  Before it was featured in Goodfellas and Tower Heist, this historic Woodhaven tavern was purportedly the venue of Mae West's first performance.  At its Queens Taste premiere, Neir's served Cotton Candy-flavored Wings, Saddle-Up Wings, Boneless Chicken Tender Bites, and Burger Bites.  I skipped the first one, but tried the rest; the heat of the Saddle-Up wings made them my favorite.

Clockwise (from top): Boneless Chicken Tender Bite, Saddle-Up Wing, Burger Bite from Neir's Tavern

Redwood Deli of Forest Hills was back with a tasty offering that delivered appreciable heat: Spicy Chicken Tacos.

Redwood Deli's Spicy Chicken Tacos

Hoping to repeat its 2014 success, Murphy's Bar of Sunnyside returned with raw oysters (judged Best Appetizer last year), and introduced a crustacean variant of a common sandwich.  The Blue Point Oysters were titillatingly fresh, and the Lobster BLT—lobster, applewood-smoked bacon, mesclun, and tomato—was uncommonly delicious.

Lobster BLT and Blue Point Oyster from Murphy's Bar

Ginger is a marvelous digestive aid, and Bruce Cost's unfiltered sparking beverage provides a refreshing way to enjoy it.  Made with fresh ginger, sweetened with pure cane sugar, this natural ginger ale contains no extracts or oils.  It's the perfect drink for those who gormandize at events such as this.

There were five flavors from which to choose: Original, Jasmine Tea, Pomegranate with Hibiscus, Passion Fruit with Turmeric, and the 66-calorie Bruce Cost 66.

Bruce Cost Ginger Ale

I've been a fan of Drink More Good's old-fashioned soda syrups ever since I tried the Ginger Ale last year.  Founder Jason Schuler handcrafts his syrups with half the constituent sugar of mainstream sodas.  He uses neither high-fructose corn syrup nor preservatives; his ingredients are truly more good.  On this occasion, I tasted Jason's Lemon-Lime—a syrup that blends the juice of fresh, organic lemons and limes (zested and pressed by hand) with coriander, allspice, and lavender.  Mixed with seltzer, it was a "sprightly" alternative to bottled and canned fizz.

Drink More Good's Soda Syrups

Other beverages included a variety of hard ciders, beer, wine, and mixed drinks.

LIC's SquareWine & Spirits dispensed a couple of wines along with a spirituous iced tea.  Michael Hesslein poured a Verdicchio and a Rhône blend (from Washington), while Maegan Kovatch "tead" off with an Arnold Palmer spiked with Deep Eddy Sweet Tea Vodka.

Maegan Kovatch and Michael Hesslein of SquareWine & Spirits

Arnold Palmer spiked with Deep Eddy Sweet Tea Vodka

LIC's Beija Flor showed lots of spirit with its sweet Caipirinha, the cachaça-based national cocktail of Brazil.

Beija Flor's Caipirinha

Queens Courage Old Tom gin, distilled in Astoria, was a key ingredient in the 2015 People's Choice of Most Refreshing Beverage.

On to the sweets …

The lovely little cakes and pastries from Rose House at Queens Crossing in Flushing were as delicious to the taste buds as they were to the eyes.

Beautiful Cakes and Pastries from Rose House

Sam Friedman, The Paleo Factory's "Chief Caveman," produces Mud from "ingredients that come from the earth."  He blends coconut milk (as a base), cashews (for texture), a flavor element—Madagascar beans (vanilla), raw cacao powder (chocolate), or bananas—and dates (as a sweetener) to yield a pleasingly smooth consistency between those of soft-serve ice cream and mousse.

Ingredients for The Paleo Factory's Mud

Served chilled, this modern Stone Age dessert was delicious and not overly sweet.  (The Chocolate was especially good.)  Here's Mud in your mouth!

The Flavors of Mud (l-r): Chocolate, Vanilla, and Banana

My chocolate mini-Bundt cake from Bundts NYC was not quite so moist as it looked.

Mini Bundt Cakes from Bundts NYC

Having scooped up the award for Best Dessert at their first Queens Taste appearance last year, DF Mavens sought to defend their 2014 title with three more dairy-free frozen desserts: New Orleans Salted Praline (soy milk), Mint Almond Cookie (almond milk), and Key Lime Creme (coconut milk).  (The flavors were best enjoyed separately.)  Their efforts, however, did not garner the top honor on this occasion.

From DF Mavens (l-r): New Orleans Salted Praline, Mint Almond Cookie, Key Lime Creme

The Nachspeisen of Rudy's Bakery & Café, a German stalwart in Ridgewood, earned their just deserts in the 2015 People's Choice ballot.  Pastry Chef Cristina Nastasi's winning Süßigkeiten included Berry Mascarpone Shortcake, Chocolate Hazelnut Cake, and Mallomars.  I had fortuitously saved this year's Best Dessert for last.

Best Dessert: Berry Mascarpone Shortcake and Chocolate Hazelnut Cake from Rudy's Bakery & Café

Pastry Chef Cristina Nastasi

Rudy's and Cristina afforded a delightfully sweet finish to the Taste!

Another year, another great celebration of the wide variety of flavors that enrich New York's most diverse borough.  "The best food on the planet" served at Queens Taste 2015 in the New York Hall of Science was, dare I say, out of this world.  As ever, my sincerest thanks to Seth Bornstein and Rob MacKay.

Queens Taste 2015

New York Hall of Science
47-01 111^th Street
Corona, N.Y.   11368-2950   (map)

Tuesday, 12 May 2015, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

Links:

http://www.itsinqueens.com/queenstaste
https://www.facebook.com/QueensTaste
http://www.queensny.org/qedc
https://twitter.com/qedc
https://www.facebook.com/queensedc
http://www.itsinqueens.com/

Bodegón

Last week, I savored a parting view of Paulette Tavormina's exhibit, Bodegón (meaning "from the pantry"), at the Robert Mann Gallery in Chelsea.  Her splendid tableaux of fruit, bread, and meat, alongside rustic pottery and cookware, are a veritable feast for the eyes.  Inspired by Spanish painter Luis Meléndez (1716–1780), Tavormina's still lifes represent a deliciously balanced interplay of colors and textures against a contrasting black background.  The exhibit closed last Saturday.  In case you missed it …

Still Life with Cauliflower and Bread, after L.M., 2014

Still Life with Figs and Apricots, after L.M., 2014

Bread and Wine, 2014

Still Life with Jamón Ibérico, after L.M., 2014

Still Life with Bread and Chocolate, after L.M., 2014

Still Life with Melons and Basket, after L.M., 2014

Still Life with Quince and Jug, after L.M., 2014

Robert Mann Gallery

525 West 26^th Street
Floor 2
New York, N.Y.  10001-5514   (map)

(212) 989-7600

http://www.robertmann.com/
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Robert-Mann-Gallery/

By train:   to 23 Street
By bus:  M11, M12, M23

bZ Grill: Greek Street Food from b to Z in Astoria

Whether the concept of serving Greek street food in a restaurant setting is intentional or not, it is executed superbly at bZ Grill in Astoria.  Don't look for casserole-style main courses like moussaka or pastitsio here.  Such items, as well as seafood platters, roasted chicken and lamb, and other typical Hellenic restaurant dishes, are conspicuously absent from the menu.

Mix Grill for two (l-r): Pork Gyro, Bifteki Gemista, Seftalia, Loukaniko, and Chicken Gyro atop a bed of fries

The variety of Greek and Cypriot meat offerings is by no means austere, however.  While our original mission was to investigate bZ Grill's "New York's best gyro" contention, we ended up sampling that speciality and a lot more with the Mix Grill for two ($25.72), an overflowing plate comprising Chicken and Pork Gyro,

Bifteki Gemista (a "Greek burger" made with seasoned ground beef, stuffed with goat cheese),

Seftalia (a homemade Cypriot pork sausage with hints of fresh mint inside),

and Loukaniko (a Greek sausage marinated with red wine and leeks)—all heaped upon a pile of outstanding french fries.  (Greek cooking takes both the flavor and texture of its potatoes seriously.)  Tzatziki and taramasalata spreads, along with sliced tomatoes and onions, and a stack of warm pita rounded out our sampler.  The meats, all processed at bZ's own plant, were authentically spiced and deliciously satisfying.  (For an additional grain of authenticity, there was even a shaker of Kalas Greek sea salt, albeit iodized, on the table.)

Also tasty was our Greek Salad ($9.61) of tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, peppers, and olives, topped with slabs of feta imported directly to the restaurant from Greece.  The outstanding quality and flavor of the cheese, enhanced by sprinkles of olive oil and oregano, made us forget that tomatoes were out of season, a rare achievement this time of year.

Greek Salad topped with outstanding imported feta

One curiosity was that the hallmark meat element one expects in a gyro was nowhere to be found: spiced ground lamb (usually blended with ground beef) rotating on a vertical spit.  BZ Grill's spits instead offered marinated chicken and pork with plenty of fat remaining.  The latter is plated with slices of absolutely irresistible crackling pork.  The resulting gyros are among New York's best.

Pork and chicken on vertical spits and the grilling of the mix

To accompany our mixed grill, we enjoyed a bottle of Hatzimichalis Erythros Red 2007, a smooth and pleasant Bordeaux blend that tasted more like a California interpretation of a Rhône.  It lacked the hard spice and lean tannins usually associated with Greek and Cypriot dry reds, suggesting, perhaps, that Greece exports wines tailored to the American palate, while it retains its "typical" wines for domestic consumption.

Although the sunken dining room is somewhat spare, it afforded a comfortable indoor setting in which to enjoy mouthwatering outdoor comestibles.  Greek street food has found a good home at bZ Grill.

bZ Grill

27-02 Astoria Boulevard (27^th Street)
Astoria, N.Y.  11102-1926   (map)

(718) 932-7858

https://www.bzgrill.com/
https://twitter.com/bzgrill
https://www.facebook.com/BZGrillFans

By train:  to Astoria Blvd
By bus:  Q19, M60 SBS

Watch: The busy bZ grill

Comestiblab:  What do a Greek sliced-meat dish and a framed-disk apparatus have in common?  Both the gyro and the gyroscope owe their names to gyros (γύρος), a Greek word meaning "turn" or "revolution."  Thus, gyro meat and the disk inside a gyroscope are said to gyrate around an axis.

While gyro is pronounced "YHEE·rho" in Greece, the word is commonly pronounced "JYE·roe" in New York and in most of the United States.

"Seasoned" Greetings 2014

Yule ComestiLog: Payard's Bûche de Noël

For this year's bûche de Noël, I returned to one of my favorite French pastry shops on the Upper East Side.  When last I purchased a Yule log (a sinful Saumur) from Payard, it was at the pâtisserie's original site at 1032 Lexington Avenue—a hallowed space that once housed the delightful Délices La Côte Basque, and its desirous successor, Désirs La Côte Basque.  After the inexplicably long hiatus, I felt a bûche from Payard was overdue.

Beyond having relocated one block east to 1293 Third Avenue (next to J.G. Melon), Payard has added several new locations in Manhattan, as well as branches in Las Vegas, Japan, and Korea.  Payard's expansion and continued success should come as no surprise to anyone.  A third-generation pâtissier, François Payard found himself immersed in the art of pastry while growing up around his grandfather's acclaimed Au Nid des Friandises in Nice, France.  After burnishing his skills under the tutelage of his family, Mr. Payard left the French Riviera for Paris, where he became the pastry chef at the venerable La Tour d’Argent, and later at Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton.  After Paris, where else but New York?  In August of 1997, following successful stints at Le Bernadin and Restaurant Daniel, François Payard opened his eponymous pâtisserie and bistro at the aforementioned Lexington Avenue address.

Payard's selection of bûches de Noël this year seemed more tempting yet than what I could recall from my last visit: Chestnut Cassis (vanilla bean pound cake with candied chestnut mousse, cassis crémeux, and poached cassis); Chocolate & Berries (milk and dark chocolate mousse, chocolate flourless cake, raspberry, strawberry, and currant jam, and raspberry crémeux); Caramel Chocolate (sablé breton topped with caramel mascarpone, salted caramel chocolate mousse, and chocolate cake); and the Louvre (layers of chocolate and hazelnut mousse, with a crispy hazelnut wafer, hazelnut dacquoise cake, and dark chocolate glaze).  The foregoing bûches were available in sizes of four ($28), six ($42), and eight ($56) servings.

Left to Right: Chestnut Cassis, Chocolate & Berries, and Caramel Chocolate

The Louvre log (6p, $42)

Though each was extremely appealing, I chose the six-serving Louvre, a work of art worthy of its name.  This rich, decadent bûche delivered the sort of complexity not normally found in such a confection.  The various levels of hazelnut, chocolate, and cake, each with its own flavor and texture, were coated in an exquisite dark chocolate ganache, and embellished with macaron "mushrooms."  François Payard's Louvre elevates the Yule log to a veritable art form.

All the artistry comes at the expense of tradition and verisimilitude, however.  Payard's bûches lack the rustic look and feel of a log.  Absent are the nubs, the bark-textured frosting, and the meringue mushrooms.  That said, it's hard to find fault with Payard's exquisite pastry; it's among the finest I've tasted.

Layers of chocolate and hazelnut mousse, a crispy hazelnut wafer, and hazelnut dacquoise cake

Finally, to add a little Christmas spirit to the Louvre log, a glass of Frangelico is the perfect accompanying libation.

FP Pâtisserie

1293 Third Avenue (near 74^th Street),
Upper East Side, Manhattan   (map)

(212) 717-5252

http://www.payard.com/
https://www.facebook.com/payardpage

By train:  to 77 St
By bus:  M101, M102, M103

Related post: Ceci-Cela's Bûche de Noël

A Late Taste of the Season at Johnny's Reef

It's gritty, it's simple, it's unpretentious—and it's a relic.  Most of all, however, it's good.  After 64 years (although the sign proclaims 65) of dishing up tasty fried grub, Johnny's Reef, continues to draw hungry seafarers as well as landlubbers to the southern tip of City Island.

With sweeping views across the Sound to Long Island and a distant Manhattan skyline, this seaside cafeteria offers a great escape amid a hot, sunny afternoon.  While the weather may have turned colder, summer doesn't seem all that distant here.

To reach Johnny's Reef, one must travel the length of City Island past countless seafood places that range from grungy shacks to tony restaurants.  A glimpse of Johnny's exterior back wall—a first impression for many—reveals this eatery's place on the foregoing continuum: empty five-gallon coleslaw buckets and other service discards share their space with employees on a cigarette break.  Finding a parking spot can seem like a bumper car ride, especially when other drivers disregard the arrows on the pavement.  New visitors should not be discouraged by outward appearances, however; exceptional seafood awaits within.

The amusement park-like ambiance plays out further inside.  Resembling a midway, the restaurant's interior comprises a vast array of food, beverage, and service stations along an L-shaped counter that extends the length of two walls.  Tables and chairs are arranged to take advantage of the pleasant waterside views afforded by a wall of windows.

The noisy hustle and bustle, without directions for how to proceed, could conceivably overwhelm the novice.  Thus, a few guidelines here might not be amiss.  First, it's important to note that disparate foods and beverages are ordered and paid for separately.  Seek out the desired overhead menu, decide what to eat, and step up to a numbered station at the counter, where a helpful cashier will take your order as well as your payment (cash only).  When your order is ready, proceed to the service area, and help yourself to plastic utensils, condiments, and lots of napkins.  (The diner-style napkins are flimsy, wholly inadequate to the task, and will fly off the tray with every attempt to reach for one.)

Stop at the beverage station or at Johnny's Bar.  Don't be discouraged by the limited list of beers posted overhead; the bartender will offer additional (and more appealing) selections upon request.

If weather permits, carry your tray to a picnic table on the arena-sized terrace, where you can catch all the action that happens outside.  On a recent visit we were entertained by such divertissements as children feeding the Hitchcockian mob of gulls and hotdogging jet skiers determined to drown one another—all amid a spectacular sunset.  There seems to be a wind-tunnel effect in the vicinity:  if it is at all breezy, be prepared to batten down everything, including your plate and cup.  If it's cool or breezy, consider staying inside; the food cools quickly in the wind.

On my visits, I usually head straight to station 4 in the fry section.  Though the shrimp ($13) are rather good, I almost always order the fillet ($13), a superb fried sole that is without peer.  Moments after the cashier turns and calls out, "filete," an overflowing basket (large enough to share) of fish atop a mound of fries arrives on my tray, together with a paper plate.  Although a single wedge of lemon is included, I always ask for more.  (This is where to make that request.)  Tartar sauce, ketchup, hot sauce, and salt also complement the fish and chips well.  To wash it all down, I much prefer beer to Johnny's overly sweet cocktails.

Golden-brown perfection: Johnny's fillet atop a mound of fries

While the fried shrimp is good, the fillet is better

Where's the slaw? It's hidden somewhere among the fries

To put it simply, Johnny's fillet represents some of the best fried fish one might hope to encounter anywhere.  Fresh, and fried perfectly to a delicious golden brown, the fillet is sweet and has a nearly silken texture; its breading and spicing complement the mild fish without overwhelming it.  For some, it could be the sole reason to come here.  The french fries are fairly thin, and quite delicious.  Buried within this fresh, hot, not-too-greasy treasure, is a tiny container of coleslaw, which, especially after being heated by the fries, tastes every bit as industrial as its five-gallon container would suggest.  Fortunately, the slaw is the only weak element of the meal.

As the season winds down, we've gone the long way around the island to come to a conclusion that is short and sweet: For a huge portion of super fresh, perfectly prepared fish fry at a reasonable price with a great view of the water, it's hard to imagine any place better than Johnny's Reef.

Johnny's Reef Restaurant

2 City Island Ave
Bronx, N.Y.  10464-1607  (map)

(718) 885-2086

https://www.johnnysreefrestaurant.com/

By bus:  Bx29

Red Barn Farm Goat Cheese

The aptly named Red Barn Farm in Stonington, Maine is nestled unassumingly at the end of a residential driveway.  Its doors are a gateway to one of the most delightful experiences one might have Down East.  Donna Brewer is a woman of many talents; her primary skill had been upholstering, as advertised on the roadside sign.  Her husband, Marsden, is a lobsterman.  But how did an upholsterer and a fisherman become consummate cheesemakers?

For 20 years Donna and Marsden kept goats on their farm as pets.  The Brewers hadn't discovered their taste for chèvre until they bought some from a friend who is also a goat farmer.  Not long thereafter, the couple decided to take advantage of their natural resources by using the milk of their own goats to make cheese.  They made chèvre for themselves and their friends the first few years, but after Donna and Marsden received their state certification in 2012, their avocation officially became a business.

Red Barn Goat Cheese sells some of the finest fresh chèvre it has been our pleasure to sample.  Made with milk from Anglo-Nubian goats, it hits all the marks: a tangy sweetness embodied in a texture that is neither too dry nor too moist.  And it's available with a wide variety of harmonious seasonings.  For example, a taste of the seemingly unusual combination of peperoncini and goat cheese reveals a match made in chèvre heaven: the sourness, heat, and tang of the peperoncini comprise the perfect foil to the creamy richness of the mild cheese—which, of course, has a tang of its own.  The garlic-and-herb remains my favorite, however; its bold flavors—similar to those of Boursin—satisfy all that may ail my palate.

We loaded up with five pounds of Red Barn's cheese, which we hope will tide us over until we visit again next year.  (We order a few days ahead, and, by having the chèvre wrapped in bulk, we receive a discount.)  Once home, we rewrap the cheese into smaller portions; not only does this chèvre freeze well, it freezes beautifully.  Eleven-and-a-half-month-old specimens are virtually as tasty as fresh ones.

Donna has expanded her ever-increasing variety of goat milk offerings to include yogurt, feta, and even soap.  The soap comes in a wide variety of scents, is creamy smooth, and feels quite nourishing on the skin.  Reasonably priced and packaged aesthetically in fabric and ribbon, it makes a lovely gift.

Of course, what cheese-and-upholstery operation in Maine would be complete with a lobster tank?  Yes, Red Barn sells live lobsters, too.  (Donna is happy to steam them for those wishing to save a little time.)  Some say that the Brewers sell some of the best lobsters on the island—quite an achievement considering they belong to the largest lobstering fleet in the United States!

Donna Brewer

Despite the level of accomplishment on offer at the Red Barn, the true reward of a visit here is Donna Brewer herself.  Unassuming and exuberant, knowledgeable and compassionate, she is one of the most delightful people we've met in these parts.

Alas, having been in somewhat of a hurry, we did not sample Donna's two newer wares: yogurt and feta.  We'll certainly try them next year.  And since guests are welcome to visit the goat herd, we'll be sure to head out back and thank the ladies for their role in the production of such a delectable cheese.

Red Barn Farm

88 N Stonington Rd
Stonington, ME   04681-3531  (map)

(207) 367-5100

Not Worth the Buck's

Had we not enjoyed gracious service and fine dishes at Buck's Restaurant in Brooksville, Maine a couple of years ago, we might have been merely annoyed, rather than utterly shocked, by the unforgivable rudeness we encountered there recently.

While the first incident upon our arrival was easily the most offensive, it presaged what was to be a long evening of annoyances and disappointments.

When we approached the lectern, the hostess was engaged in what was clearly a personal phone call.  After chatting a few more moments, she turned to us and asked, sotto voce, lest she disturb her caller, "Jones?"  "No, Smith," I replied.  She glanced at the reservation book, mouthed "oh," and without further words to us, resumed her telephonic gabfest, grabbed two menus, and walked into the dining room.  The first table onto which she began placing our menus ("seating us" would be inaccurate, as she never made eye contact or spoke with us) was by far the worst in the house, and should probably not even exist: a two-top along the restaurant's main artery that required a person of average build to turn slightly in order to maneuver between it and a nearby guest.  Upon requesting a different table, we were led down to a two-top in the confined, sunken bar area that was dominated by a party of ten that evening.  Though the large, convivial group did not behave offensively in any manner, the acoustics were such that their modest merriment reverberated to a distracting level.  Unfortunately, no other table was available to us.

All the while, the so-called hostess never abandoned her telephone call.  Whether she uttered any words beyond the ones explaining our dearth of seating options, we can't recall.  Of what we can be certain, however, is that, with one notable exception, neither of us had ever been treated so rudely by any greeter in any establishment—not even in the grungiest beanery.  Worse yet, this ungraciousness could not be ascribed to the callowness of youth; nay, the gray-haired woman masquerading badly as a hostess that evening was clearly old enough to have known better.

Normally, while waiting for a server, we chat with our host or hostess briefly, and then between ourselves.  That evening, however, the two of us had yet to exchange a single word; so stunned were we by this woman's rudeness that we simply stared at each other in silence, eyes wide, and mouths agape.

The menus revealed further signs of lax management.  Various errors on the food and beverage cards suggested carelessness and inattention to detail—characteristics entirely too consistent with our reception.

Although our waitress was polite and seemingly well-meaning, she wasn't very knowledgeable or particularly attentive.  About a minute after requesting olive oil for our bread, we watched as she engaged another server in a lengthy conversation in the next room.  By the time she returned senza olio, it was already too late; our starters had arrived.

Insalata [di] Frutti di Mare

We expect very fresh seafood in Maine, especially if it is caught in the immediate vicinity and served in an upscale setting.  Alas, the modestly sized yet grandly priced ($15) Insalata Frutti di Mare [sic] contained mussels that were clearly stale and very, very close to being bad.  The three small pieces of lobster were reasonably sweet, however, and seemed to be the freshest among their plated sea mates.  And while the large shrimp were fairly good, they should have been fresher.  The snap of biting into a very fresh shrimp is unmistakable.  Sadly, these little crustaceans had drifted beyond their "snapping point" at least a day or two earlier.  The baby octopus and calamari were similarly unremarkable.  To recapitulate: Buck's charges $15 for a salad comprising a few stale mussels, about an ounce and a half of lobster, three large (not jumbo) shrimp, a tiny octopus tentacle, and a few pieces of calamari (which cost the restaurant almost nothing).

"Classic" Caesar Salad

The Classic Caesar Salad ($9) telegraphed its inadequacy by claiming to include a "creamy parmesan" [sic] rather than an authentic Caesar dressing.  Not surprisingly, there weren't the slightest hints of fresh garlic, anchovy, Dijon mustard, fresh lemon juice, or egg yolk—the sine quibus non of a true Caesar.  Inexplicably, this "classic" was served with a wedge of tomato.  (Et tu, tomate?)  On the positive side, the shaved Parmesan atop the romaine added a nice touch, but it alone could not elevate this salad above banality.

Poached Atlantic Salmon

The Poached Atlantic Salmon ($24) owed its flavor and tender moistness to freshness and competent simmering.  Sadly, it had been drowned in a creamy dill sauce that was trite and unimaginative.  The boiled red-skinned potatoes with parsley butter were even less stimulating.  Worst of all, however, were the vegetables that somehow managed to avoid both seasoning and cooking.  (More about that anon.)  With regard to its appeal, this course was an apt successor to the Caesar salad.

Tuscan-style Rabbit

The only highlight of the evening—for which the chef truly deserves kudos—was the Tuscan-style Rabbit ($27): rabbit leg served in a delicious sauce featuring a medley of porcini and button mushrooms, rabbit sausage, olives, and white wine.  (As with the seafood salad, it happened to be the priciest item in its menu category.)  At its very best, rabbit tends to be a bit dry.  This preparation, however, was absolutely succulent, and seasoned to perfection.  The deep, earthy flavors of the wild and cultivated mushrooms, together with the savory brown sauce, created an inspired interplay that enhanced the rabbit's own inherent earthy (but not quite gamy) flavors and exquisite moistness.  (Think primal and moist forest floor in their very best senses.)  Alas, the inspiration did not extend to the bed of polenta upon which the rabbit lay; the cornmeal tasted as though it hadn't seen a grain of salt or any other seasoning.

Taunting the rabbit with raw vegetables

Finally, and again, inexplicably, the green beans and carrots that accompanied both main courses were unseasoned and raw; the squash, though steamed superficially, was raw inside.  Plating this small offering separately from the rabbit further underscored its oddness.

Aside from the outstanding rabbit, the only other vaguely positive aspect of the evening, was the reasonable wine list.  It is far too common to encounter larcenous prices 200, 300, or even 400 percent above retail.  (Restaurants purchase wines wholesale at prices roughly two-thirds those of retail.)  Buck's, however, seems to price its wines about 100 percent over retail—even slightly lower in a few instances—for which it deserves praise.  We enjoyed a relatively inexpensive bottle of rosé, the $24 price of which seemed quite fair.

Although the dessert menu beckoned, we'd already had quite enough—in more ways than one.  We simply wanted to leave.  But first, we had to point out that we'd been charged twice for the wine.  (How ironic!)  The hostess's assurance that she would have caught the error at the time of payment was most comforting, however.

UFO sighting: Unidentified Flecking Objects on the wall

As if we hadn't suffered enough indignities theretofore, the final insult was yet to come.  I had noticed something that had been splattered onto the wall next to my Comestaccomplice's seat (by a previous diner, possibly).  It was clearly a splash pattern that had dried to form an unheavenly constellation of white droplets against a crimson backdrop.  My companion dipped her serviette into water and, without difficulty, wiped some of it off.  As we left, we notified the hostess of the maculate wall.  But instead of sparing a few more seconds of her precious time to acknowledge our concern, she dismissively imputed the mess to an imperfection in the plaster.  (Should a plaster problem exist in fact, the area ought to be wiped down between seatings, covered by something decorative, or repaired.)  Allowing guests to think they are sitting beside filth is unacceptable.

This was once a very pleasant restaurant.  Alas, an ill-mannered hostess, a minimally trained waitress, misspelled menu items, and a food-flecked wall constituted an unsavory recipe that left a bad taste in our mouths.  What a pity the management has become so uncaring and apathetic.  Unless it undergoes a drastic reorganization, Buck's will not see my bucks again.

Buck's Restaurant

6 Cornfield Hill Rd
Brooksville, ME  04617-3654  (map)

(207) 326-8688

https://bucksrestaurant.weebly.com/

Rarely Expressed Well: Meat Temperature

Do you order a 20-ounce cup of coffee or a Venti?  Do you reward service with a tip or a perquisite?  Cloaking simple meaning in pompous diction can be both confusing and exasperating.  One such intrusion into restaurant argot is the incipient use of the word temperature to express a degree of cooking.

Merriam-Webster has yet to include doneness in its full definition of temperature.  Nevertheless, the familiar question, "How would you like that cooked?" is being smoked out in favor of "What temperature would you like that?"  Regarding a steak, the expected rejoinder would probably be a named point somewhere within the continuum of raw to shoe leather (with medium-rare typically serving as the default).  But what if the reply were given as a temperature in the literal sense of the word?

When I'm at the grill, I rightly concern myself with cooking temperatures and times; when I'm at a restaurant, however, someone else is supposed to do that on my behalf.  I don't pack a meat thermometer when I dine out, but perhaps I should.  In this way, I could specify an actual temperature—in either Fahrenheit or Celsius—and then measure my order's accuracy at the time of presentation.  (My preferred steak temperature, incidentally, is 115.7°F or 46.5°C.)  If the thermometer reading were beyond, say, a three-degree margin of error, I could justifiably send my order back.  Would such mockery help to banish this pretentious use of the word temperature?  I'm already champing at the bit for some server to ask, "How many minutes per side?"

To what temperature would you like your steak cooked?  The table below lists degrees of cooking and corresponding internal temperatures for fresh beef.

Steak Doneness		Core Temperature
		Range	Ideal
Very rare, blue, Pittsburgh		110-120 °F (43-49 °C)	115 °F (46 °C)
Rare		121-129 °F (50-53 °C)	126 °F (52 °C)
Medium rare		130-139 °F (54-59 °C)	131 °F (55 °C)
Medium		140-149 °F (60-65 °C)	145 °F * (63 °C)
Medium well		150-159 °F (66-70 °C)	154 °F (68 °C)
Well done		160-174 °F (71-78 °C)	163 °F (73 °C)
Very well done, shoe leather		175+ °F (79+ °C)	180 °F (82 °C)
* FDA / USDA minimum, before a 3-minute rest

Queens Taste 2014

A record-setting 49 vendors served the world's fare to the more than 700 eager participants who braved the elements to take part in Queens Taste 2014 at the Sheraton LaGuardia East Hotel in Flushing.  Hosted by the Queens Economic Development Corporation, the twelfth annual gastronomic extravaganza included performances by a Big Apple Circus clown, two tables of World's Fair memorabilia from the Queens Historical Society and The Port Authority of NY & NJ, and special Mets ticket offers.

Queens Taste 2014 video

The Taste welcomed several newcomers this year, including Pa-Nash, a new "Euro Soul" eatery in Rosedale that fuses Mediterranean and Moroccan cooking with Caribbean and Soul Food influences.  The Fig-glazed Chicken Wings, though tasty, were not warm enough to allow my full appreciation of them.  The meatball and the Herb-Crusted Lump Crab Cakes, on the other hand, were warmer, and, thanks to the savory Moroccan spices, hotter.

Pa-Nash's Fig-glazed Chicken Wings and Moroccan-spiced Meatball

Herb-Crusted Lump Crab Cakes with Moroccan spices

Another newbie, Murphy's Lobster Grill, fared very well at its Queens Taste initiation.  Michael Patrick Murphy's Sunnyside pub received the Best Appetizer award for its Oysters on the Half Shell.  In addition to its victorious raw oysters, Murphy's Bar offered Steamed Mussels and Lobster Mac 'n' Cheese.

Murphy's Lobster Grill's Steamed Mussels (left) and
Lobster Mac 'n' Cheese (right)

Also making a triumphant debut was Zenon Taverna of Astoria.  The Greco-Cypriot eatery earned Best Entrée honors for its Mediterranean Octopus, Lamb Meatballs, and Taramosalata (ταραμοσαλάτα).  While the char-grilled meatballs—seasoned with salt, pepper, fresh garlic, onion, and parsley—may have been slightly oversalted and a bit chewy, they were delicious nonetheless.  The Taramosalata (carp roe, or taramas, mixed with mashed potatoes, lemon, and onion, served in a phyllo cup) was a tasty meze as well.  The veritable standout, however, was Zenon's grilled octopus.  Perfectly seasoned with oregano, pepper, and bay leaves, then drizzled with olive oil, vinegar, and lemon, this preparation was tender, moist, and unquestionably deserving of its award.

Zenon Taverna's Grilled Mediterranean Octopus

Char-grilled Lamb Meatballs (left) and Taramosalata (right)

Elena Papageorgiou savors Zenon Taverna's Best Entrée award

Dutch Kills Centraal, a Long Island City gastropub, marked its first appearance with housemade Chicken Liver Pâté on Crostini and Deviled Eggs with Bacon—some of my favorite picnic fare.

Dutch Kills Centraal's Housemade Chicken Liver Pâté on Crostini

It was also the first time round for Bill's Balls, a purveyor of artisanal meatballs from Astoria.  Bill tailors his spherical concoctions to suit various localities, such as Astoria, Mulberry Street, Upstate, and even Philly.  To honor the venue of this year's event, owners Bill Morris and Daniela Del Giorno rolled out The Flushing—a pork dumpling ball served with Sweet Thai Chili sauce and and cabbage-scallion slaw.

The Flushing, an Asian-inspired meatball from Bill's Balls

Other Queens Taste debutants included Rose House (salad), Kimchi Smoke (smoked kimchi with pulled pork), and Jam Jar Bakery (hot fudge toffee crunch jar pie).

Rose House's Salad

Kimchi Smoke's Pulled Pork

Jam Jar Bakery's "Pie in a Jar"

DF Mavens completed the list of successful 2014 premieres with its dairy-free frozen desserts.  The chill, non-dairy Salted Praline (soy milk), Mint Chocolate Chip (almond milk), and Mango (coconut milk) scooped up the award for Best Dessert.

Kevin Melvin dishes up DF Mavens's winning desserts

It was a pleasure to see a number of returning favorites as well.

Mina Newman and Mario Argudo of Christos Steak House

Though it failed to receive an award, Chef Mina Newman's Braised Short Ribs from Christos Steak House in Astoria represented perfection on a plastic plate.  Tender, succulent, and seasoned just right, this marvelous viand melted in my mouth.

Braised Short Ribs

The Dog and Duck gastropub of Sunnyside served sliders again this year.  I still miss the duck confit from 2012!  Next year, Padraigh?

Woodside's F. Ottomanelli Burger & Belgian Fries returned with more burgers with which to defend its 2013 Best Entrée title.

F. Ottomanelli attempts to defend its 2013 title

La Adelita was back with more good Mexican eats.

La Adelita's Salsa, Guacamole, and Tortilla Chips

Uncle Peter's of Jackson Heights spooned up its Seafood Salad Supreme of lobster, shrimp, crabmeat, and avocado.

Uncle Peter's Seafood Salad Supreme

The sport of kings is celebrated in Queens at Elmhurst's La Fusta.  Holding the reins at his Argentinean homage to horse racing (fusta means rider's crop) is Stephen Tatarian, one of the Taste's most engaging restaurateurs.  This year, he trotted out skewers of skirt steak, grape tomatoes, portobellos, and sausage.

La Fusta's Mixed Grill Skewers

And what would a visit to this event be without a bite of the signature sandwich from Leo's Latticini?  In addition to its famous hero of peppered ham, salami, fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, and mushrooms, Mama's of Corona (as it's known locally) reprised its Caprese Salad (fresh mozzarella with basil, tomatoes, and olive oil), Prosciutto Bread, and Biscotti.

A reprise of Leo's Latticini (aka Mama's of Corona) favorites

Flushing's Magna Ristorante, another perennial favorite (awarded for Best Entrée in 2012), returned with a pair of tasty pastas, and introduced a highly popular dish of sweet, spicy peppers with ricotta and mozzarella inside.

Eleonora Greco gives the thumbs-up to Magna's cucina

After last year's success, McClure's Pickles of Brooklyn and Detroit was back with more brined bits.  The Sweet Spicy, my favorite, packed plenty of heat—perhaps even more so than did the Spicy.

McClure's Sweet Spicy pickles

The beverages seemed to include fewer wines this year.  SquareWine & Spirits returned as one of the few vino vendors.

How many wine samples contributed to the incarnadine nose?

After the wine, I sipped an intensely sweet libation gingerly: Blind Monkey Punch, made with Barrow's Intense Ginger Liqueur, Caliche Rum, San Pellegrino Limonata, and club soda.

Taste no evil: Blind Monkey Punch

Having sampled the aforementioned Bill's Balls, it was only fair that I tried Pat's balls again for dessert.

Pat Pilla

Pat Pilla describes her cheesecake balls as "a little bite of heaven and an explosion of flavor in your mouth."  Her company, Chee'Bonnet, is one of the many successful ventures launched at QEDC's Entrepreneur Space.

A delightful dozen Chee'Bonnets

Yet another E-Space success is Sara and Corey Meyer's Little Bird Chocolates.  The couple and their wares have become an annual favorite of mine.  I'm especially fond of their hot Candied Jalapeños.

Assorted bites of Little Bird Chocolates

And finally, Ridgewood's venerable Rudy's Bakery and Café, famous for its Süßigkeiten since 1934.  For this year's Taste, pastry chef Cristina Nastasi prepared Mini Cupcakes, a seasonal Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp, and Oatmeal Marshmallow Sandwiches.

Süßigkeiten from Rudy's Bakery & Café

"A great time was had by all," declared QEDC Executive Director Seth Bornstein.  "The food, the beverages, the networking, and the upbeat atmosphere were simply fantastic. I'm already looking forward to next year, and I am extremely grateful to our lead sponsor, Fairway Market."

Queens Taste 2014

Sheraton LaGuardia East Hotel
135-20 39^th Avenue
Flushing, N.Y.  11354  (map)

Tuesday, 29 April 2014, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

Links:

http://www.itsinqueens.com/queenstaste
Queens Taste 2014 Facebook photo gallery
http://www.queensny.org/qedc
https://twitter.com/qedc
https://www.facebook.com/queensedc
http://www.itsinqueens.com/

World's Fare at Queens Taste 2014

The Queens Economic Development Corporation, the Queens Tourism Council, and lead sponsor Fairway Market are proud to announce that the borough's premiere food-and-networking event, Queens Taste 2014, will take place at the Sheraton LaGuardia East Hotel, 135-20 39^th Avenue in Flushing, from 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M. on Tuesday, 29 April.

The reasons to attend are as diverse as the borough itself.  Foodies can expect to feast on everything from sweet to savory; Mexican to mainstream; and crunchy to creamy (including artisanal specialties prepared by Entrepreneur Space clients).  And, of course, there will be various libations to fortify the spirit of the event.

As part of the fun, clowns from the Big Apple Circus will perform magic tricks and distribute free red clown noses to all attendees (or at least to those who want one).  In addition, QEDC and the Queens Historical Society will host a table exhibiting memorabilia from the 1939 and 1964 World's Fairs—both of which took place in Flushing Meadows Corona Park.

Finally, this event affords a perfect venue for networking.  QEDC hopes to attract some 1,000 attendees, with most either residing in Queens or doing business in the borough.  Thus, Queens Taste 2014 provides a convivial setting in which to meet like-minded individuals, talk shop, and exchange business cards.

Queens Taste 2014 costs $100 for an individual ticket, or $175 for two.  Proceeds support QEDC's ongoing efforts to attract and maintain jobs in the borough through business services, neighborhood development, the E-Space, and marketing attractions through QTC and the Discover Queens brand.  As QEDC is a 501 (c) (3) nonprofit, proceeds are tax deductible as permitted by law.

To purchase tickets online, please visit www.itsinqueens.com/queenstaste.  For more information, please call (718) 263-0546, or send email to [email protected].

To enter for a chance to win a pair of tickets to Queens Taste 2014, please click on: https://www.facebook.com/ItsInQueens.

Queens Taste 2013

Sheraton LaGuardia East
135-20 39^th Avenue
Flushing, N.Y.  11354  (map)

Tuesday, 29 April 2014, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

By train:  or LIRR to Flushing/Main St

    * * *

To view last year's event, please click on the link:  Queens Taste 2013.

"Seasoned" Greetings 2013

Coffee on the Lower East Side? Whynot!

Fabulous coffee and tantalizing croissants summoned my taste buds back to Whynot Coffee—this time to its Lower East Side outpost on Orchard Street.  Unlike the '60s Parisian motif of the original, the theme of this site is that of an art gallery.  To maximize exhibit space, the barista station is situated within an island in the center of the café.  The spacious interior affords a fine setting in which to enjoy coffee and the art surrounding it.

All the familiar delights from Blue Bottle coffee and Mille-Feuille bakery are here, too.  Oh, and I discovered a new favorite: the raspberry croissant.  Filled with a homemade raspberry preserve and dusted with dried raspberries, this bright, flaky pastry tasted of fruit, not sugar.  I can't recall ever enjoying a more delectable croissant!

Raspberry croissant

The savory items were tasty as well.  Both the prosciutto-and-provolone croissant and the smoked salmon quiche were satisfying, even though the latter was a bit overly farinaceous.

Ham and cheese: prosciutto-and-provolone croissant

Smoked salmon quiche

Of course, the coffee was, as ever, superb.

Espresso (left) and caffè latte (right)

The gallery's inaugural exhibit—works by Brooklyn artist Jeremy Penn—was officially launched on Thursday, 12 December.  It was a splendid evening of paintings, pastries, and prosecco.

Whynot Coffee Art Gallery

175 Orchard Street (between Houston & Stanton Sts),
Lower East Side, Manhattan   (map)

(646) 682-9065

https://www.facebook.com/whynotcoffeeNYC
https://twitter.com/whynotcoffeeNYC

By train:  to 2 Avenue (exit at Allen Street)
By bus:  M9, M14A, M15 SBS, M21, B39

Serge

Soirée de la séduction - Chapter 1

Soirée de la séduction - Chapter 2

Hot Lips Explosion

Hot Lips Scale

Jeremy Penn

Coffee? Whynot!

Have you been to the new café at the corner of Christopher and Gay Streets?  Whynot?  No, really, Whynot—that's the name of one of the newest arrivals on the Village coffee scene.  Since it opened in May, this cozy little spot has developed quite a following.  Wherefore has Whynot become so popular?  Is it owing to the coffee or the café?  A recent visit afforded a good occasion to find out.

Let me begin by spilling the beans about what's inside the cup.  Whynot obtains its roasts from the Brooklyn outpost of the Oakland-based Blue Bottle Coffee Company, described as "the best coffee you may ever drink" by Fortune magazine.  "Customers love it," manager Miki Mihajlov told me.  My cup of Bella Donovan, an organic fusion of African Moka and Indonesian Java, was not your average joe.  I drank it black in order to savor the rich, slightly citrusy flavor of Blue Bottle's most popular blend.  (For those who do not prefer coffee au naturel, Whynot provides a wide variety of organic milk.)

Whynot offers delicious baked items to accompany their java.  The viennoiserie comes from Olivier Dessyn's Mille-Feuille bakery a few blocks away.  Delivered frozen, the croissants are baked in the convection oven behind the counter.  "It's the best way we could do it," explained Miki.  "Before, we got the croissants already baked, but they weren't that fresh."  My Pain au Chocolat (chocolate croissant), made with organic unenriched flour and hormone-free European-style butter, was warm, delicately flaky, and délicieux.  (I'm saving the almond and raspberry croissants for future visits.)  A delightful gluten-free macaron added a sweet finish to my morning coffee.

Pain au Chocolat (chocolate croissant)

Almond and raspberry croissants

Macarons

Additional baked goods such as cookies and breads, many of which are gluten-free and vegan, come from LifeThyme Natural Market on Sixth Avenue.

The space itself is as alluring as the coffee.  Owner Emil Stefkov transformed an erstwhile women's clothing store into a seductive neo-retro European-style café.  Wishing to create a setting evocative of 1960s French culture, he approached Brooklyn artist Jeremy Penn to produce paintings of some of the most popular icons of the day—Brigitte Bardot, along with Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg.  Penn's artwork infuses strokes of masterly sensuality into the happening vibe.

8' x 6' mural of Brigitte Bardot featuring 24-karat gold dust

Paintings by Jeremy Penn: Mon Coeur Brûle D'amour Pour Toi (left) and Séduction en Bleu (right)

A '70s-era Sansui stereo receiver (dare I call it a hi-fi?), replete with a vintage Yamaha turntable, complements the retrospective paintings with groovy aural reminiscences.  That's right, vinyl—no MP3s, CDs, 8-tracks, or even cassettes.  (Simon & Garfunkel's Bridge Over Troubled Water was the LP of choice on my visit.)  There's even a Discwasher kit with which to whisk the records!  The music and the artwork combine to transport the mind to another place and time.  "A lot of the customers reach a bigger creativity when they sit here," asserts Miki.

Large windows on two sides add light and airiness to the 1,000-square-foot space, while providing a lens to the outside world.  Outdoor benches augment the 40 indoor seats.

More than just a name, Whynot represents an attitude—a civilized escape from the daily grind.  The accommodating, customer-friendly atmosphere is reflected in both the décor and the amenities.  Despite its retro motif, Whynot is cablé, providing ample charging outlets as well as free wi-fi, and even accepting credit cards—conveniences not found at many other New York coffee bars.  "We approach customers in a different way," says Miki.  "Can I have this?  Can I do this?  The answer is always, why not?"  A version of the George Bernard Shaw quotation that inspired Whynot's name and its very essence can be found throughout the café:

"Some people see things as they are and ask why.  I dream of things that never were and say Whynot."

Whynot Coffee & Wine

14 Christopher Street (SW corner Gay St)
Greenwich Village, Manhattan   (map)

(646) 756-4145

https://www.facebook.com/whynotcoffeeNYC
https://twitter.com/whynotcoffeeNYC

By train:  to W 4 St
                    to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq
              or PATH to 9 St

By bus:  M5 (uptown), M20 (downtown), M8

Comestiblab:  In the south of France (from Poitiers down), the pain au chocolat is called a chocolatine.  But ordering a chocolate croissant by that name in Paris is liable to be met with feigned ignorance and a derisive sneer.  To Parisians, the word bespeaks a lack of sophistication—a trait they impute to southern French bumpkins.

Water is the Spirit of Leaf Vodka

What'll it be, Alaska glacial or Rocky Mountain mineral?  Because water accounts for 60 percent of vodka's constitution, its influence in shaping the spirit is significant.  Thus, after sipping the world and testing the water, so to speak, Leaf Vodka's Ukraine-based research-and-development team identified two sources that yielded the distinctive characteristics and flavors they sought: a glacier-fed lake in Alaska and a mineral spring in the Rocky Mountains.  At last week's Leaf Vodka launch at Trump SoHo, I sampled both varieties.

I began by tasting the spirits side by side, neat.  Leaf's Alaskan glacial water vodka (green label) revealed hints of sweetness, and a very round feel on the tongue—akin to a white wine that has undergone significant malolactic fermentation.  The Rocky Mountain version (blue label), on the other hand, exhibited a noticeable taste of minerals.  While both vodkas were smooth, the latter did not impart the prominent roundness of the former.

Both Leafs are easy to drink, and, at their suggested retail price of $16.99 to $19.99, easy to purchase.  It would seem quite reasonable to have both varieties on hand to accommodate the preferences of one's guests, as the two render distinctly different cocktails.

As an example, the sweetness of the Alaskan glacial water enhanced the sweet and tart fruit flavors of the Pink Glacier's lime, pink grapefruit, and cranberry juices.

Pink Glacier

The mineral expression in the Rocky Mountain water, on the other hand, added an earthy "bite" to the herbal notes of the Bitter Re-Leaf's basil leaves and lime.

Bitter Re-Leaf

While Leaf Vodka's USDA organic certification is noteworthy, it's not a major selling point.  "We want to focus on the core essence, water, which, according to tradition, breathes life into vodka," says Julius Criscione, National Sales and Marketing Director for Megapolis USA, the American subsidiary of Global Spirits.

Below are some of the other drinks I sampled. Please click here to view a complete list of recipes.

Gold Leaf

Twisted Leaf

Leaf-n-Berry

Leaf Vodka is currently available in New Jersey and Connecticut.

http://www.leafvodka.com/
https://twitter.com/LeafVodka
https://www.facebook.com/leafvodka

Victor's Café is Golden

When I told an old West Sider that I'd been invited to Victor's Café, he recalled fondly his numerous dining experiences at the eatery's original site, adding, "it was the first place to serve Cuban food in New York."  This year, in its third generation of family ownership, the city's oldest Cuban restaurant celebrates its golden anniversary in the space it has occupied in Manhattan's Theater District since 1980.

The story begins in 1957, the year Victor del Corral and his family left Cuba for New York.  After six years of holding odd jobs around the city, Mr. del Corral, with the help of his wife, Eloína Ruíz de Ugarrio, finally realized his dream of introducing New Yorkers to Cuban cooking.  In 1963, Victor opened his eponymous café at 240 Columbus Avenue (at 71^st Street), whereupon, it became one of Gotham's most celebrated dining spots.  As the years progressed, additional generations of the family entered the scene.

In 1972, Sonia Zaldivar joined her father's culinary team to initiate "the evolution of Cuban cuisine."  Embracing the Nuevo Latino trend, she revised many of the patriarch's recipes, making them lighter and more healthful.  Her introduction of olive oil and pan searing, for example, added a moderno flair to Victor's traditional fare, and helped to lighten the perception of heavy Cuban food.

Sonia continues to play an active role in the operation of the restaurant, albeit "via satellite" from Miami.  Her daughter Monica is now at the helm, adding her charm and effervescence to the family's longstanding tradition of hospitality.  Keeping apace with the times, Victor's is not your grandfather's Cuban café—unless, of course, you happen to be Monica Zaldivar.  The ambiance is contemporary and sophisticated—a festive, yet elegant setting that would seem to befit a modern-day Bogie and Bacall.

We entered the restaurant to the stress-melting strains of Cuban music (performed by a trio in the Cuba Lounge), and were seated in the Skylight Room, a relaxing space with the insouciant feel of a patio.  Its palm trees, colorful art along the wall, oscillating ceiling fans, and large windows to the sky transported us into a tropical world far from New York.

Our captain, Armando, a 13-year veteran of Victor's Café, navigated us ably through our culinary tour of Cuba.  He and his team pampered us with exemplary service that was informative, ingratiating, and most of all, attentive without being intrusive.

Victor's Signature Mojito

We started with a couple of drinks to put us into the proper spirit, so to speak.  Because Victor's Signature Mojito headed the list of cocktails, I had to give it a try.  The combination of Atlantico Rum, fresh lime, mint leaves, and simple syrup yielded a potent and delicious apéritif.  A swizzle stick of fresh sugar cane created a stir of sweetness.  My Comestaccomplice's sangría—a blend of red wine, triple sec, brandy, gin, fresh squeezed juice, and oranges—included a Cuban twist:  guava!  This unusual ingredient added a delightful balance to the sangría's citrus flavors.  While the libations were a bit sweeter than comparable ones elsewhere, the sugar in both drinks tasted very pure, clean, and smooth.

Mariquitas de Plátano with Salsa

Our appetizers began with Mariquitas de Plátano, addictive homemade green plantain chips, accompanied by a salsa of tomatoes, red peppers, and a habanero or two for mo' heato.  The piquancy of the red sauce provided a savory offset to the deep-fried sweetness of the mariquitas.  Ah, but this was just the beginning.

Starters—Clockwise (from top): Chorizo Español, Croqueta Corral, Papa Rellena, Bartolito

Along with the mariquitas, the 50^th anniversary prix fixe Taste of Cuba menu comprises four appetizers.  Yes, four!  Bartolito is one of the most popular.  It's a sweet-plantain tower, filled with roast Berkshire pork, olives, and raisins, served over a  zesty black bean sauce, and topped with goat cheese (of which I'd have enjoyed an additional crumble).  My first bite convinced me of its superiority.

Bartolito

Victor's Papas Rellenas are a Cuban variant of a traditional Peruvian dish.  The stuffed potato balls are made by encasing seasoned ground prime sirloin in deep-fried mashed potatoes.

Papa Rellena

Our aperitivo tour continued with the oblong Croqueta Corral con Salsa Lulú.  The soft, flavorful smoked ham croquette was served atop Lulú's savory sauce of roasted tomatoes and Cachucha peppers.

Croqueta Corral con Salsa Lulú

The final item on our sampler plates was the Chorizo Español, a Spanish sausage made from chopped pork and pork fat, spiced with smoked pimentón (paprika) to add both flavor and color.  (Its taste is vaguely similar to that of pepperoni.)  The chorizo is sautéed in olive oil with onions, red peppers, and olives to make this delectable tapa a bit less sinful.

Chorizo Español

We weren't finished with our starters, however.  The next appetizing installment was Ceviche de Pargo, a superbly executed dish of chopped fresh Florida red snapper, marinated with lime juice, onions, and garlic, served over mango and avocado, and topped with shoestring sweet potato fries.  This harmonious combination of contrasting flavors and textures—salty, savory, citrusy, sweet, soft, and crunchy—was exquisito.  It was abundantly clear as to why this is one of Victor's most popular starters.  The Ceviche de Pargo was, as Armando aptly described it, perfect.

Ceviche de Pargo

Taquitos con Lechón

But wait, there was yet one more starter:  Taquitos con Lechón, a Cuban variant of Mexican tacos.  This dish added an element of fun because it required assembly and could be eaten with one's hands.  Armando deftly wrapped the soft yuca (cassava) tortillas around a pork hash that had been sautéed in olive oil with peppers, tomatoes, onions, and raisins.  We both enjoyed the tortilla's subtle flavor, along with its light chewiness and silkiness.  The filling was very flavorful, and the salsa complemented it well.  It would be interesting to try these tortillas with a variety of different fillings.

After a second mojito, it was time for our entrées.  The Taste of Cuba menu includes a triadic sampling of Victor's signature mains.

Mains—Clockwise (from top): Lechón Asado, Camarones Enchilados, Ropa Vieja, Yuca & Sweet Plantains

My fork was drawn initially to the house specialty, Ropa Vieja (literally, "old clothes").  This popular Cuban mainstay features shredded Black Angus skirt steak simmered in garlic, peppers, tomatoes, and onions.  Seated on a bed of mashed plantains in a diminutive, tuliplike basket of plantain slices, the presentation could not have been more appealing.  The meat was perfectly moist, with a rich underpinning of red peppers.

Ropa Vieja in a Mini Plantain Basket atop Mashed Plantains

While I greatly enjoyed the foregoing dish, my favorite was the Lechón Asado al Estilo de Puerto Boniato.  The hand-carved roast suckling pig, marinated in sour orange, olive oil, garlic, and herbs was flavorful, tender, and succulent.  A delicious piece of crispy skin added an exquisite crowning touch.  I'd gladly order this dish again.

Lechón Asado al Estilo de Puerto Boniato

My Comestaccomplice, on the other hand, raved about the Camarones Enchilados.  While the large shrimp were above average, the zesty creole sauce of tomatoes, garlic, onions, peppers, thyme, and white wine was a standout.  Its rich, savory flavors were seamless; nothing was out of place.  This was by far her favorite among the entrée samples.

Camarones Enchilados

Yuca con Mojo was one of the accompaniments to the trio of mains.  Tangy onions and garlic in olive oil gave the highly starchy chunks of boiled cassava their mojo.  And what Cuban meal would be complete without Plátanos Maduros Fritos (fried sweet plantains), black beans, and rice?

Yuca con Mojo (left) and Plátanos Maduros Fritos (right)

We sipped on another round of mojitos before dessert.  While my Mojito Passion, made with Don Q rum and passion fruit, was sweeter than the previous quaffs, it afforded my palate an impassioned transition to the course ahead.  Equally sweet was my companion's refreshing Mojito de Sandía, mixed with Bacardi Grand Melón and fresh watermelon.

Mojito de Sandía (foreground) and Mojito Passion (background)

The Taste of Cuba Dessert Trio included one of the finest examples of its kind anywhere:  an outstanding flan.  Its subtle, minimally sweetened flavors of egg and vanilla, together with a rich, creamy texture, made Victor's Flan de Huevo ethereal.  This Cuban-style egg custard literally melted in our mouths.  It's difficult to describe just how good it was.  Also included was the Guayabitas de María, a warm guava cobbler with a buttercrumb topping, capped by an eggshell-shaped scoop of Tahitian vanilla ice cream.  Freshly baked and well prepared, this sweet dessert is Victor's most popular.  An exceptional rice pudding, or Arroz con Leche (literally, "rice with milk") rounded out the trio.  With strong influences of cinnamon, it had an interesting flavor we were unable to identify at first.  Finally, Armando identified it as a touch of anisette.  Although neither of us is particularly fond of anise, its subtle inclusion really did enhance this dish.

Dessert Trio—Left to Right: Arroz con Leche, Flan de Huevo, Guayabitas de María

We ended the sweet course with Churros con Tres Salsas, Cuban-style "doughnuts," sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, accompanied by chocolate, dulce de leche, and condensed milk sauces.  Having a crispy exterior and a soft, moist interior, the churros were tasty with or without the sauces—and splendid with coffee.  They afforded a delightful conclusion to our sumptuous culinary voyage to Cuba.

Churros Con Tres Salsas

Just as Victor had pioneered fine Cuban dining in New York 50 years ago, his daughter and granddaughter are blazing the trail toward brighter and lighter Cuban cooking today.  It's a golden legacy of which Mr. del Corral would rightly be very proud.

Victor's Café

236 West 52^nd Street
(between Broadway & Eighth Av)
Theater District, Manhattan  (map)

(212) 586-7714

https://www.victorscafe.com/
https://www.facebook.com/victorscafe
https://twitter.com/VictorsCafe

By train:  to 7 Av; to 50 St
By bus:  M20, M50, M104

 

Queens Taste 2013

Forty vendors dished up a world of flavors to more than 900 eager tasters during Queens Taste 2013 at Citi Field's Caesars Club last month.  Hosted by the Queens Economic Development Corporation, the eleventh annual gastronomic extravaganza included performances by a Big Apple Circus clown, an appearance by 1969 Miracle Met Ed Kranepool, a booth displaying work by local emerging artists curated by Jackson Heights-based Zoescope, and a stand up routine by Steve Hofstetter of the Laughing Devil Comedy Club in Long Island City.  In addition, it was a special honor for your humble Comestiblogger to have been selected as one of this year's four Taste Masters.

Queens Taste 2013 through the eyes, ears, and gullet of Comestiblog:

The Venue:

Citi Field, Flushing Meadows Corona Park

The Appetizers and Entrées:

The gluttony began at the first table with a plateful of Mexican bites, enhanced by a half-dozen sauces, from Woodside's La Adelita Restaurant.  The steak and shrimp were particularly moist and flavorful.

La Adelita's Mini Tacos

Who could resist La Rioja's hand-sliced Jamón Serrano?  In addition to its dry-cured Spanish "mountain ham," the Astoria tapas bar offered a fine gazpacho.

Rioja's Jamón Serrano

Long Island City-based Rèst-âü-Ránt served some light, tantalizing bites, including bacon-jam adorned cucumber slices, shrimp dumplings, and Chicken Saté with peanut dip.

Chicken Saté was also among the eclectic offerings at Riverview Restaurant & Lounge, another LIC representative.

Leo's Latticini (known locally as Mama's of Corona) dished up superb fresh mozzarella (only a few hours old) with basil, tomatoes, and olive oil.  In addition to their marvelous mozzarella, Mama's girls served Prosciutto Bread, Biscotti, Mini Cannoli, and, of course, their popular signature sandwich (2012 photo).

Leo's Latticini's Fresh Mozzarella

From fresh mozzarella to aged cheddar …

Cabot Cheese

McClure's Pickles of Brooklyn and Detroit, another returning favorite, speared this year's Best Appetizer award for its spicy and garlicky gherkins.

Best Appetizer: McClure's Pickles

Simple and tasty, Redwood Deli's Spinach Pie (Spanikopita) was a strong contender for best appetizer.  Furthermore, the Cuban Sandwich (roast pork, deli ham, Finlandia Swiss cheese, crisp pickle slices, and mustard on a hero) from this Forest Hills deli was a nice Latin companion to the Hellenic pie.

Redwood Deli's Spinach Pie (Spanikopita)

Cuban Sandwich

Another nominee for top appetizer was Bourbon Street's BBQ Shrimp.  The dish of Cajun-spiced jumbo decapods, served in a "secret" sauce, was creamy and delicious.  In addition, the New Orleans-themed Bayside café added a Southern twist to comfort food with its Pulled Pork Mac & Cheese.  Was this merger of American classics a bit two much?

Bourbon Street's BBQ Shrimp

Pulled Pork Mac & Cheese

Austin's Steak & Ale House of Kew Gardens, a sister eatery to the aforementioned Bourbon Street Café,  reprised its offerings from last year: tender, succulent slices of Skirt Steak, along with bite-sized spherical Crab Cakes.

Austin's Skirt Steak

Crab Cakes

A competing steak dish came from Christos Steak House in Astoria.  This one featured tender slices of filet mignon on toasted bread, topped with wild mushrooms, bacon, and a small cap of Gorgonzola.

Christos's Filet Mignon on Toast

Following the success of its delicious duck confit its first time out, The Dog and Duck opted to serve various sliders—beef, lamb, pork, duck, and short rib—this year to kick off its late-May burger week.  I think my Duck Slider had been ashore too long.  Bring back the confit!

The Dog and Duck's Duck Slider

Some of my favorite selections came from Rocoto, a Peruvian restaurant in Jamaica.  The affable husband-and-wife team of Jesus and Jennie Moreno prepared a couple of dishes I considered to be winners.  While the Causa afforded a savory interpretation of (yellow) mashed potatoes, I particularly enjoyed the fresh, citrusy Peruvian-style (corbina) Ceviche and its tasty Leche de Tigre derivative.  (Peruvians consider the so-called "tiger's milk" to be an aphrodisiac as well as a hangover remedy.)  The biggest catch of the evening, however, was the beautiful boneless salmon.  Moist, tender, and grilled to perfection, the 27-pound fish was gobbled up quickly by some voracious sharks.

Rocoto's Peruvian Ceviche

Leche de Tigre

Causa

Grilled Salmon

Magna, recipient of last year's award for best entrée, returned with another pair of tasty dishes from its Flushing ristorante: Pollo Antonino (roasted chicken with garlic, sage, rosemary, white wine, and olive oil) and the somewhat chewy Pasta Bruschetta (a variant of the traditional antipasto, prepared with pasta instead of bread).

Magna's Pollo Antonino

Pasta Bruschetta

Another Italian dish shared top honors this year for the Best Entrée.  Although the Chicken Milanese (pan-fried cutlets, topped with fresh mozzarella and roasted peppers, in a warm, balsamic vinaigrette) from Corona's Pine Restaurant (at the Holiday Inn LaGuardia Airport) was reported to have been the winner, the Chicken Scarpariello (a tangy mélange of chicken breast chunks sautéed in a lemon-garlic herb sauce, sliced potatoes, bits of sausage, and sweet vinegar peppers) was the Taste Masters' veritable preference.  In either case, congratulations to Executive Chef Carlos Velez for a winning dish.

Pine's Chicken Milanese

Best Entrée (tie): Pine's Chicken Scarpariello

F. Ottomanelli Burger & Belgian Fries of Woodside shared the 2013 Best Entrée award with Pine.  With the advantage of having his own butcher shop, Frank Ottomanelli is able to grind out what he calls "the freshest burger you can eat."  I chose the Bacon Cheddar over the plain, and found it to be one of the tastiest, juiciest hamburgers I'd enjoyed in some time.  Instead of placing the toppings onto the ground beef, chef Michael Proano blended the bacon and cheese into the patties to create his victorious dish.

Kudos to both chefs for their winning entrées.

Best Entrée (tie): F. Ottomanelli's Bacon Cheddar Burger

The Libations:

Hard iced tea and cider …

A few wines …

Pumphouse, from Long Island's North Fork hamlet of Mattituck, poured a couple of interesting table wines: a merlot-dominant red Bordeaux blend, and a white Suffolk County blend.

From the North Fork: Pumphouse Red and White

The Rocket Ship Wine Company of Lodi, California offered a compelling element to its wines: each brand is linked to a corresponding charity.  Its Mustache Vineyards line, for example, funds prostate cancer initiatives, while its Sacramento Trail label aids Pony Express history preservation.  The slightly earthy Pinot Noir and the restrained Old Vine Zinfandel were highly drinkable.

Rocket Ship Wine Company:
Mustache Vineyards Pinot Noir and Sacramento Trail Zinfandel

And something harder: Kamasutra, a vodka in the "spirit of seduction."

Liquid Pleasure: Kamasutra Vodka

While whiskey may not be my favorite distilled beverage, the infusion of maple makes it far more appealing.  Cabot Trail's Canadian Maple Whisky and Maple Cream liqueur were smooth and downright yummy.

From Canada: Cabot Trail Maple Cream and Maple Whisky

The Desserts:

After Tropisec's triumphant appearance at Queens Taste last year (video), Blanca Lilia Narváez returned with another round of her delightful, dehydrated fruit.  The mango and kiwi-banana samples I tried nearly scored her a repeat victory.

Tropisec's sec Kiwi and sec Banana

Pat Pilla, whom I met at the first anniversary celebration of QEDC's Entrepreneur Space (video), served her delicious bite-sized Chee'Bonnet cheesecake balls.

Pat Pilla's Chee'Bonnets

"A hybrid of chocolate truffle and ice cream," is how Becky Kestenbaum describes her Becky's Bites.  Each "bite" contains a creamy filling that's rolled onto graham cracker crumbs, and dipped into Belgian chocolate.

Becky's Bites

Cinnamon Bread Pudding represented an encore for Bourbon Street Café.

Bourbon Street's Cinnamon Bread Pudding

Rudy's Bakery and Café, a konditorei in Ridgewood since 1934, served cookies, Red Velvet Whoopie Pies, and Mini Cupcakes.  The diminutive chocolate cupcakes were crowned with a salted caramel icing bejeweled with little pretzel segments and a light drizzle of caramel.

Rudy's Mini Chocolate Cupcakes

In a unanimous decision, Take a Break and I'll Bake won this year's Best Dessert award for its excellent Southern-style sweets and polished presentation.  The cream cheese pies, muffins, and Pineapple Upside-Down Cake (my favorite) were as pleasing to the palate as they were to the eye.  Congrats!

Best Dessert: Take a Break & I'll Bake

Specializing in high-quality baked goods for fundraisers, special events, and restaurants, Faith and Luis Osorio's startup is one of many successful ventures hatched in the kitchen incubator at QEDC's Entrepreneur Space.

Faith Osorio

The Video:

The Conclusion:

"We are extremely happy with how everything turned out, and I'm already looking forward to next year," stated QEDC Executive Director Seth Bornstein.  "The food, the beverages, the networking and the upbeat, almost giddy, atmosphere really couldn't be beaten, and it looked like everybody had a great time.  A special thanks to lead sponsors Fairway Market and Citi and the USTA, our honoree."

A special thanks also to Seth Bornstein and Rob MacKay for affording me the pleasure of serving as a Taste Master this year.

Queens Taste 2013

Citi Field
123-01 Roosevelt Avenue (126^th St)
Flushing, N.Y.  11368   (map)

Tuesday, 14 May 2013, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

Links:

http://www.queensny.org/qedc/queenstaste/
Queens Taste 2013 Facebook photo gallery
http://www.queensny.org/qedc/
https://twitter.com/qedc
https://www.facebook.com/queensedc
http://www.itsinqueens.com/
https://www.facebook.com/discoverqueensny

Celebrate a World of Flavors at Queens Taste 2013

The Queens Economic Development Corporation and lead sponsors Citi and Fairway Market are proud to invite you to the borough's premiere food-and-networking event, Queens Taste 2013, at Citi Field's Caesars Club from 6 P.M. till 9 P.M. on Tuesday, 14 May.

The reasons to attend are endless.  First, the food, which will be as diverse as the borough.  Expect everything from sweet to savory, Mexican to Trinidadian, and crunchy to creamy.  For example, Rego Park's Ceviche Bar is planning to bring Peruvian delicacies such as ceviche (of course) and chicha morada, a refreshing drink made from purple corn and cloves.  Meanwhile, Sunnyside's Dog & Duck Gastropub will serve duck hamburgers, and Sac's Place will offer pastas that are handmade in Astoria by the owner's mother.

In addition, clients of the Entrepreneur Space, a food-and-business incubator that QEDC operates in Long Island City, will showcase their artisanal specialties such as gourmet cheesecake balls, and healthy chickpea concoctions.

Then there are the drinks.  Forest Hills-based wine provider Nestor Imports and LIC's Court Square Wines headline a spirits group that includes Brooklyn Brewery, Genesis Brands, Manhattan Beer Distributors and Chopin Vodka.  (Yes, some of the drink purveyors are based outside of Queens, but they all have a big presence in the borough.)

As a distinct bonus, this year's theme will focus on Sandy Recovery.  QEDC asked Fairway Market to be the lead sponsor largely because the business took pains not to lay off any employees despite a lengthy shutdown of its storm-damaged Red Hook store.

Tickets to Queens Taste 2013 are priced $125 apiece, or $225 for two.  Proceeds support the QEDC's ongoing efforts to attract and maintain jobs in the borough through business services, neighborhood development, the E-Space, and marketing attractions through the Queens Tourism Council, and the Discover Queens brand.  As QEDC is a 501 (c) (3) nonprofit, proceeds are tax deductible to the extent permitted by law.

To purchase tickets online, please visit www.queensny.org/qedc/queenstaste.  For more information, please visit www.queensny.org, call (718) 263-0546, or send email to [email protected].  See you there!

Queens Taste 2013

Caesars Club, Citi Field
123-01 Roosevelt Avenue (126^th St)
Flushing, N.Y.  11368   (map)

Tuesday, 14 May 2013, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

By train:  or LIRR to Mets-Willets Pt
By bus:  Q48

    * * *

To view last year's event, please click on the link:  Queens Taste 2012.

Tbilisi Keeps Georgia on My Mind

For most of its existence, my palate has not enjoyed much exposure to the gastronomic delights from the crossroads of Asia and Europe.  A recent visit to Tbilisi on Kings Highway in Gravesend, Brooklyn, however, afforded me a fine introduction to the marvelous flavors of Georgian cooking.

თბილისი, the Georgian spelling of Tbilisi

Simple and unassuming, this restaurant serves delicious, authentic dishes from its namesake, Georgia's capital (and largest) city.  A spacious dining room, comfortable tables with white linens, walls adorned with photographs of old Tbilisi, and Georgian music playing in the background, virtually transported me to the Caucusus for my inauguration.

Photographs of old Tbilisi adorn the dining room walls

Crossing the Ts: A ligature of superimposed graphemic counterparts (the Latin T and the Georgian თ). The crescentic grapevine symbolizes Georgia's viticultural heritage.

My feast began with Spinach Pkhali with Walnuts, a cold dish that originated in the western part of Georgia.  Combining elements of a salad and a spread, this traditional starter blends finely chopped spinach and ground walnuts with fresh garlic, onion, cilantro, fenugreek, and cayenne pepper to produce a soft, spicy ball of flavor.  While the garnish of pomegranate arils added appetizing contrasts of taste, texture, and color, the red onions and cilantro accentuated the flavors of the ingredients.  Since I enjoyed the spinach pkhali (pronounced ხah·lee, where ხ refers to the voiceless velar fricative) with such gusto, I'm eager to sample the eggplant and bean variants on a future visit.

Spinach Pkhali with Walnuts

Next, I tried the traditional Khachapuri Imeretian (pronounced ხuh·juh·poor·ee ih·mer·ih·tyen, where ხ refers to the voiceless velar fricative), a bread stuffed with melted cheese.  Round, flat, and savory, this is one of Georgia's culinary mainstays.  Often described as "Georgian pizza," this khachapuri (literally, "cheese bread") hails from Imereti, a region in the center of the country.  Although suluguni, the so-called "pickle cheese," is preferred for its consistency and slightly sour flavor, mozzarella can be used as a reasonable fill-in, so to speak.

Khachapuri Imeretian

On my next visit, I may try the boat-shaped Khachapuri Adjarian.  This preparation, from western Georgia (near the Turkish border), features a concave vessel of dough loaded with cheese, baked with a raw egg.  It certainly sounds interesting, if not dangerous.

Khinkali, dumpling of championships

My main course comprised boiled meat dumplings.  Khinkali, with origins in Georgia's mountainous northeast regions, is considered a national dish.  (The menu lists it under the rubric of "National Hot Entrées.")  While a traditional ground lamb filling is used in the aforementioned mountains, a more contemporary mixture of beef and pork (the type served at Tbilisi) is more popular elsewhere.  The rustic, unsubtle ingredients—salt, pepper (black and red), ground caraway seed, minced onion and cilantro—yield a meat filling that's literally bursting with flavor.  The story doesn't end with the choice of protein, however.

Ground black pepper on khinkali is de rigueur

Encasing the raw meat is a thick, doughy skin that is pleated and twisted together to form a nipple-shaped seal called a kudi ("hat") or a kuchi ("navel").  The dumplings are boiled in salt water (thus cooking the meat, and producing a flavorful broth within), and served hot.  Adding coarsely ground black pepper at the table is de rigueur.

Consuming khinkali (pronounced ხing·kah·lee, where ხ refers to the voiceless velar fricative) is practically an art.  Owing to the copious juices trapped inside, Khinkali must be eaten with one's hands to avoid spilling any of the precious liquid.  The procedure requires holding the dumpling with both hands (using one's thumbs to support the nipple-shaped knob), taking a modest initial bite of the integument, and drawing out the broth—all without dribbling.  I'm proud to report that I fared quite well my first time!  Braggadocio aside, I found these aromatic, savory dumplings to be among the most delicious I've tasted.

Khinkali filled with a mixture of ground beef and pork

Interestingly, the casing and the juices within—not the meat itself—are the basis of regular competitions in Georgia.  While women are gauged by their skillful ability to prepare khinkali, men are evaluated by their deft ability to consume them.  To wit, the more pleats a woman folds into her dumpling, the higher her rating—39 is considered ideal.  And, as you may have guessed, the more dumplings a man eats sans spillage, the higher his score.  (To maximize capacity for this contest of Georgian gorging, the doughy nipples are not consumed; the uneaten knots are used to keep count.)  Despite all its pressure and difficulty, I think I prefer the male role.

What to drink with this sort of cooking?  Although Georgian culture is entwined with its viticultural heritage, this restaurant offers no alcoholic beverages.  Tbilisi does, however, allow BYOB.  (What better opportunity to open the bottle of Georgian wine I'd bought on a whim a while ago?)  My Khvanchkara 2005, a semi-sweet, unfiltered red wine from Racha in western Georgia, turned out to be a fortuitously fitting selection.  Made with Alexandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes, its hints of berry, cherry, and pomegranate paired favorably with the spiciness of the comestibles.

Because I had taken along my own wine, I felt compelled to order another beverage of some sort.  While the Zedazeni "fizzy drink" seemed appealing, the only flavor available was tarragon.  Unfortunately, distinguishing this so-called "lemonade" from a carbonated mouthwash presented quite a challenge: I wasn't sure whether to swallow or to gargle.  This was the only part of the meal I did not enjoy.

Notwithstanding the soft drink, Tbilisi afforded my palate a fine initiation into the flavorful realm of Georgian cooking.  I found it to be a most pleasant discovery, and should highly recommend it to anyone who savors something deliciously different.  Gaamos!

Tbilisi

811 Kings Highway (between E. 8^th & E. 9^th Streets),
Gravesend, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 382-6485

By train:  to Kings Highway
By bus:  B82, B68

 

Happy New Year!

Should auld acquaintance be forgot,
And never brought to mind?
Should auld acquaintance be forgot
And auld lang syne?

For auld lang syne, my dear,
For auld lang syne,
We'll tak a cup o' kindness yet
For auld lang syne.

"Seasoned" Greetings 2012

Yule ComestiLog: Ceci-Cela's Bûche de Noël

One of my favorite desserts this time of year is the bûche de Noël, or Yule log.  As its name and shape suggest, this iconic French confection represents the European tradition of burning a large log in the hearth to celebrate Christmas and the winter solstice.  Today, the name bûche is used, almost exclusively, to refer to the softer, comestible log.

8" Grand Marnier Bûche de Noël from Ceci-Cela

Essentially, a bûche de Noël (pronounced büsh dih noh·ELL, where ü refers to the German ü or the French u sound) is a génoise (or similar sponge cake) roll, filled with buttercream, and frosted to look like tree bark.  Ends are often sliced off and fused to the top to resemble stubs of severed branches.  Furthermore, meringue mushrooms are typically included as an edible decoration to the log.  Many creative pasty chefs even insert diminutive plastic saws and axes to round out the arborcultural motif.

As it has in various Yuletides past, our bûche came from Ceci-Cela this year.  Known for its made-from-scratch délices, this NoLita pâtisserie française has long been a favorite of mine.  Pastry chef Laurent Dupal, a native of Nancy, France, began his rise when he embarked on his study of baking at the age of 13.  Classically trained at the prestigious Compagnons du Devoir du Tour de France, Dupal produces masterly pastries of all sorts.

While a chocolate buttercream filling is traditional, I opted for Grand Marnier this time.  Irrespective of flavor, two aspects of this dessert are critical to my delectation: restrained sweetness and spongy texture.  When the foregoing elements are at their peak, my enjoyment is practically assured.  Chef Dupal met both criteria in grand style to yield a bûche that delighted my senses with simple, fresh, and delicate flavors rolled into a beautiful and complex presentation.  But why was the Grand Marnier frosting pink?

While my Comestaccomplice enjoyed the Yule log without additional flavoring, I found that a drizzle of Grand Marnier added the perfect finishing touch.  Of course, an accompanying glass of the liqueur was de rigueur.

Ceci-Cela

55 Spring Street (near Lafayette Street),
NoLita, Manhattan  (map)

(212) 274-9179

http://www.cecicelanyc.com/

By train:  to Spring St (exit on north side)
By bus:  M5 (downtown)

Flushing Food Festival

Has Flushing's superior Asian fare ever really been a secret?  The cognoscenti have raved about it for decades.  Just to emphasize the point, however, the Downtown Flushing Business Improvement District held a food festival celebrating the cuisines of China, Japan, Malaysia, Vietnam, Korea, and India.  The event took place Friday, 27 July 2012, in the ballroom of the Sheraton LaGuardia East Hotel.  Below are some of the highlights.

Video: Introductions and Culinary Highlights

Tianjin Pancakes (Chinese): Chive Dumpling (left) and Beef Pancake (right)

Since I skipped breakfast for this festival, the egg in the Chive Dumpling afforded an appropriate first taste.

Chive Dumpling with Pork,  Egg, and Cellophane Noodles

Next, the Grilled Pork "Vietnamese Sandwich," better known to you and me as Bánh Mì.  It was accompanied by a Summer Roll with shrimp, roast pork, bean sprouts, carrots, and lettuce.

Pho Hoang (Vietnamese): Roast Pork Bánh Mì and Summer Roll

The sushi looked so yummy!  I sampled the California Roll and the House Special Salad.

Yummy Sushi House (Japanese): Sushi Platter

House Special Salad and California Roll with accoutrements

The highlight of the afternoon was the Curry Chicken with Potato over Coconut Rice with Home Style Roti Canai.  The harmonious blend of the chicken's curry, coconut milk, and spices, together with the matching sweetness of the sticky rice, and the delicate Malaysian bread, achieved a sort of nirvana on the palate.

Curry Chicken with Potato

Home Style Roti Canai

Curry Leaves (Malaysian): Roti Canai with Curry Chicken over Coconut Rice

Corner 28 (Chinese): Peking Duck

I tried a few Chinese offerings at the next table.

Corner 28 (Chinese): Roast Pork and Barbecue Ribs

To Korea: Jap-Che (stir-fried cellophane noodles with vegetables, mushrooms, and beef) and Hae Mul Pajun (mixed seafood-and-vegetable dumplings).

Bitgoul Tofu & BBQ (Korean): Jap-Che and Hae Mul Pajun

Deluge (Asian Fusion): Korean BBQ Short Ribs

A pleasant surprise came from the Sheraton's Deluge restaurant.  The Korean-style Braised BBQ Short Ribs were tender, succulent, and flavorful.  Despite my satiety, I returned in a minute for seconds.

Deluge (Asian Fusion): Chicken Satay

More fusion, sort of …

Savory Fusion (Chinese): Assorted Pancakes

Onion-Chive (left) and Plain (right) Pancakes

And some con-fusion.  Because it's so difficult to improve upon the French original, a fused adaptation should offer something superbly unique.  Though beautiful in its presentation, the Foie Gras Terrine with Berry Compote failed to overthrow Gallic rule.

Mulan (Asian Fusion): Foie Gras Terrine

The Plum Fish Roll offered an innovative departure from traditional Taiwanese fare. 

Taiwan 101 (Taiwanese): Plum Fish Roll

A couple of unique teas, including a Maple Herbal variety, from Rose House.

Rose House (Taiwanese): Tea

Finally, the desserts.

Tai Pan Bakery (Taiwanese): Tiramisù and Egg Custard

Dan ta (pronounced dahn·TAH), the classic Chinese egg custard tart, is practically de rigueur, but … Tiramisù??  (No, Emily, it's not Japanese!)

"Portuguese" Egg Custard

Another dolce with an Eastern twist: Asian-Inspired Panna Cotta (pineapple compote with lemongrass and Thai chili).

Monroe College: Asian-Inspired Panna Cotta

Comestiblog wishes to extend special thanks to Messrs. Dian Yu and Rob MacKay.

Flushing Food Festival
Sheraton LaGuardia East

135-20 39^th Avenue
Flushing, N.Y.  11354  (map)

(718) 460-6666

http://www.sheratonlaguardia.com/

Pascal's Bids Adieu to Larchmont

My first taste of Pascal's came in January, long before I ever had the pleasure of dining at this Westchester gem.  For me, it started with the following email invitation from a reader named Renée Powell: "Should you ever find yourself in Larchmont, please stop by my little Restaurant Pascal's for some delicious French food."  I'm not sure why I waited so long to visit, for it was surely too long—and nearly too late.  On Sunday, 8 July 2012, the restaurant closed its doors to the public for the last time.

The Pascal's story began long before that email, however.  Renée's idea to open a restaurant was conceived decades earlier, amid her studies in Paris.  While she was in college, and her brother Rogers at cooking school, the two made a pact to some day operate their own restaurant together.  "I'll manage it, and you'll chop your salads: Win-win," she told him.  The idea languished, however; ten years would pass with nary another mention of it.

Having spent some 20 years in France, Powell, a Bronx native, returned to New York in 1992.  It was there she met Pascal, who, at the time, was the maître d' of La Côte Basque.  In 1998, Renée posed the question that would alter the course of their lives: "If you had one wish for your future, even if it were impossible to reach, what would it be?" "I always wished I had my own restaurant," replied Pascal.  With that brief exchange, the long dormant sibling pact had been resuscitated.

In June of the following year, Renée posited the idea of opening a restaurant with Pascal and Rogers.  The two men dismissed her proposal summarily, citing what she called "a laundry list of reasons why it would be impossible to do."  At the time, Rogers and his family resided in Larchmont.  Renée, meanwhile, was looking to leave Manhattan, and to move closer to her brother.  Undaunted by the utter disinclination of her potential business partners, she decided to pursue a restaurant site on her own.

The first space shown to her was that of the erstwhile Hope and Anchor at 141 Chatsworth Avenue, just up the hill from the Metro-North station, in Larchmont—a mere block from her brother.  "I had to have it!" she remembers.  Upon seeing the place, however, Rogers and Pascal declared it to be "a dump."  As they turned and walked away from Renée, she yelled out to them, "Hey boys!!  That's not a dump; it is your restaurant, you just don't know it yet."  In late September, Ms. Powell had a little surprise for her bro and her beau.  "All they needed to do was to sign the paperwork," she said.  Sign they did, and, in November of 1999, became the proud owners of a restaurant.  In February, following a three-monthlong renovation, the Powell pact had finally become a reality: Rogers cheffed de cuisine, Pascal maîtred de dining room, and Pascal's was ouvert for business.

Pascal's first two years were acclivitous, however, as the elegant, upscale restaurant français struggled to carve out its niche in Gotham suburbia.  As flounder turned to founder, Renée bought out Rogers and Pascal, assuming sole proprietorship of the business in 2002.  Her brother left to work at the French Culinary Institute in New York, while her boyfriend donned the toque blanche to become the restaurant's eponymous chef.  Following substantial adjustments to the menu, Pascal's finally hit its stride.  In 2010, however, a new chef, necessitated by Chef Pascal's initial retirement, failed to maintain that momentum.  "My customers showed their dissatisfaction by boycotting my restaurant," recalls Powell.  To rescue her business, she asked Pascal to return to the kitchen in 2011.  He acquiesced, with the understanding that his reprise would endure only a year or so.  That year has elapsed.  "Time's up," says Renée, "Pascal is retired."

The last couple of weeks were emotionally charged as many longstanding customers returned for their final taste of Pascal's fabulous French fare.  What a privilege to have been a part of it!

Below are some of the dishes that delighted my palate as the sun descended on Pascal's … and Larchmont.

To begin the parade of comestibles, Renée opened a couple of bottles of her favorite wine, Edge Cabernet Sauvignon.  (Yes, Napa Valley, not France.)

Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée

The starters were magnifique!  It's no surprise that Pascal's Soupe à l'Oignon Gratinée was recognized as the "Best French Onion Soup in Larchmont."  Unlike many others, this one actually tasted of onion without confounding the palate with excessive seasoning.

Video: Renée Powell describes two popular starters

Roasted tomatoes, squash, and ratatouille atop the Tarte Méditerranéenne's delicate puff pastry and truffle vinaigrette, yielded the sort of Nice flavors found along the Côte d'Azur.

Tarte Méditerranéenne

When cut, the warm goat cheese of the excellent Pomme au Chèvre Chaud burst out of its roasted golden apple enclosure onto a bed of lettuce with honey-mustard vinaigrette.

Pomme au Chèvre Chaud

While I'm not usually very fond of mussels, Pascal's Moules Bourguignonnes made quite an enthusiast of me.  The marvelous mollusks were gloriously garlicky, and the subjacent sauce was doubly delicious when blotted with bread.

Moules Bourguignonnes

Additional allium, this time in the Escargots à la Méridionale—a superb starter of snails stuffed with garlic in a bubbling-hot parsley butter.

Escargots à la Méridionale

My favorite cold plates usually involve some sort of cured salmon.  Pascal's House Gravlax—accompanied by lemons, capers, and toast—did not disappoint.

House Gravlax

Of course, warm salmon is a favorite of mine as well.  The Sautéed Fillet of Salmon in a white wine mustard sauce was a splendid main—cooked perfectly and seasoned judiciously.  Served with a risotto cake and steamed mixed vegetables, the whole combination was highly satisfying.

Sautéed Fillet of Salmon

Renée's dish was the evening's clear winner, however.  Her Sautéed Fillet of Basa Meunière was outstanding!

Basa, a type of catfish, lends itself perfectly to the rustic meunière (literally, "miller's wife") preparation.  The fish is dredged in flour, sautéed, and served in a lemon-butter sauce.  Mashed potatoes and steamed vegetables were civilized plate partners.  Though I've tried this dish but once, I miss it already!

Sautéed Fillet of Basa Meunière

Other fine mains I sampled included the classics Canard à l'Orange (roasted duck in orange sauce) and Chicken Cordon Bleu (breaded chicken breast stuffed with Gruyère and prosciutto in a tarragon sauce).  Both were tasty and well-executed.

Canard à l'Orange

Chicken Cordon Bleu

The dessert list contained several time-honored sweets, including one of my all-time favorites, Crêpes Suzette.  For me, this exquisite flambéed crêpe dish, served in a sauce of Grand Marnier, orange juice, zest, caramelized sugar, and butter, represents one of life's great pleasures.

Crêpes Suzette

Additionally, my sweet tooth was treated, so to speak, with a superior custard filling of Crème Brûlée (literally, "burnt cream") and Crème Caramel.  (My dentist will surely appreciate the results.)

Crème Brûlée

Crème Caramel

My last spoonful of dessert was bittersweet, however; I knew this course would truly be my last at Pascal's.

Andrew and Michelle at the bar

As a way to thank her customers for their years of loyalty, Renée hosted a farewell cocktail party with plenty of goodies on Sunday, 8 July.  Below are some of the highlights of Pascal's final day:

The Comestibles:

Some of the Good-byes:

About her past 12 years as a restaurateur, Powell says, "I loved all my customers, which made this past journey worthwhile and very often fun."  Nevertheless, she expressed regret over her lack of personal time for family, community, and a social life: "We were wrapped into this restaurant … from the moment we woke up to the moment we went to sleep."  When asked about the media coverage of Pascal's closing, Renée bristles at the negative comments on local websites concerning Larchmont landlords.  Wishing to set the record straight, she emphasizes, "I loved mine, as he made everything easy for me.  He made my departure very, very sweet."  What's next for Renée Powell?  "Florida!" she exclaims with gusto.

As they departed, some of the regulars (for whom Renée had created a name-inscribed dinner plate) received their personalized plate as a precious memento.

With the last guests taking their leave, the Provençal-yellow dining room began to appear forlorn; its chairs, banquettes, and tables, now empty.  Pascal's was not a trendy place.  Rather, it was a comfortable spot, offering a traditional elegance that attracted a mature clientele.  Sadly, this sort of restaurant is becoming increasingly scarce.  "It was the last bastion of civilization in Larchmont," said one of the final guests.  While I'm not sure why I waited so long to visit, I'm grateful it wasn't too late.

Pascal's (closed)

141 Chatsworth Avenue
Larchmont, N.Y.  10538-2940  (map)

Video: Memories of Pascal's Restaurant

To view additional images of Pascal's final days, please visit the corresponding album on Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.467040689982091.114451.180435591975937

Comestiblab: Although cuisine refers to a style of cooking in English, it means "kitchen" in French.  (The modern word comes from Old French, from the Late Latin coquina, from the Latin coquere, to cook.)  And while chef connotes a skilled cook in English, it generally signifies a head, or chief, in French.  Ergo, a chef is really a chef de cuisine, or "head of the kitchen," and a head chef is a "head head."

Maître d', meaning "master of" in French, is a truncation of maître d'hôtel.  Thus, the person in charge of a dining room and its staff is, essentially, "master of the house."

Queens Taste 2012

Fun and fabulous fare were served at last month's Queens Taste 2012 at Citi Field's Caesars Club.  On 1 May, nearly a thousand festivalgoers sampled offerings from 47 vendors to celebrate the tenth anniversary of this gastronomic extravaganza.

Queens Taste 2012 through the lens and palate of Comestiblog:

The Venue:

Citi Field, Flushing Meadows Corona Park

The Celebrities:

Mr. Met

The Appetizers and Entrées:

Duck confit from an Irish gastropub?  Aye, and it was most delicious, it was!  Served in a pastry shell with wild mushrooms, gravy, and mashed potatoes, this dish from Padraigh Connolly's Dog and Duck in Sunnyside was one of my favorites.

The Dog and Duck's Duck Confit

Another standout came from the Haute Palate of Chef Lisa Christensen Beels.  Her tasty quiche-like frittatas had me returning for seconds.  I enjoyed particularly the creamy specimen made with duck egg, duck foie gras, and a trifle of truffle.

Lisa Beels's Duck Egg Frittata

The frittatas paired nicely with fresh garden greens from Queens Greenmarket, a program of GrowNYC.

Creative Concepts showed conceptual creativity with their Mango Spring Rolls.

Creative Concepts's Mango Spring Roll

I thoroughly enjoyed the Cajun Shrimp with White Beans on Roasted Garlic Crostini from Papazzio in Bayside.

Papazzio's Cajun Shrimp, White Bean & Roasted Garlic Crostini

Their Pasta e Fagioli Soup—made with a variety of red and white beans in a creamy, savory broth with onions, carrots, celery, rosemary, prosciutto, and noodles—received the Best Appetizer award.  Upon accepting his prize, Papazzio's Dominick Bruccoleri added that his soup also contained "a lot of love."

Papazzio's Pasta e Fagioli Soup

Several fine sandwiches were on hand as well.  One of the best was the deliciously satisfying Braised Lamb-Belly Pita with Dill Yogurt Sauce and Smoked BBQ Vinaigrette from Christos Steak House in Astoria.

Christos's Lamb Belly Pita

Once again, Leo's Latticini (known locally as Mama's of Corona) offered its signature sandwich of peppered ham, salami, fresh mozzarella, roasted peppers, and mushrooms, stuffed into a sesame-seed hero, surmounted by a slice of pepperoni and a green olive.  And once again, it was tasty.

Leo's Latticini's Signature Sandwich

The Pão com Chouriço from Jamaica's O Lavrador  delivered a tasty snack that encased flavorful Portuguese sausage in bread to yield the Iberian version of a hot dog in a roll.

O Lavrador's Pão com Chouriço

Fresh, lean, and simple.  That pretty much sums up the burgers from Woodside's F. Ottomanelli Burger and Belgian Fries.  Sadly, there were no fries.

F. Ottomanelli's Roasted Garlic Burger

Pop Diner in Elmhurst never disappoints.  Their superb Pernil (Latin herb-roasted pork), served with chimichurri mojo, remains a perennial favorite of mine.  With a hint of sour orange, this dish is muy delicioso!  Why didn't this little piggy win?

Pop Diner's Pernil (Latin Herb-Roasted Pork)

The Skirt Steak and Crab Cake from Austin’s Steak and Ale House in Kew Gardens fared better by land than by sea.  While the beef was tender and well-seasoned (without being salty), the deep-fried crab ball foundered.

Austin's Skirt Steak and Crab Cake

A dish of cavatelli with lamb, ricotta, and baby arugula by Russo's on the Bay of Howard Beach was nicely seasoned, yielding lovely springtime flavors.

Russo's Cavatelli with Lamb

Magna Ristorante of Flushing won the Best Entrée award for both its Pollo alla Romana (lightly sautéed chicken breast with specially prepared artichokes in a tomato-and-cream sauce), as well as its Penne alla Siciliana (long, tubular pasta with sautéed eggplant in a marinara-style sauce).

Magna's Pollo alla Romana (top) and Penne alla Siciliana (bottom)

The Libations:

At the QEDC E-Space anniversary celebration in January, I had the pleasure of sampling the fermented teas of Astoria's Beyond Kompucha, as well as speaking with the company's founder, Spiro Theofilatos.

I sipped another round at the Queens Taste.  This time, I tried the Yerba Máte [sic] and the Vanilla Rooibos.

Slightly stronger (in alcohol) were the wines.  The Empire State was represented by Cutchogue's Castello di Borghese (Long Island's first estate vineyard) and, more locally, Little Neck's Queens County Farm.  The latter represents one of New York City's last operating farms and the state's longest continually farmed site.

Queens County Farm's Merlot (left) and Chardonnay (right)

France was also represented.  (But of course!)

Gilles Louvet's Sauvignon Blanc (left) and Bulles d'O (right)

Stronger yet were the distillates.  While the estimable 1921 tequila was smooth enough to rival you-know-who, the ginger flavor of the Yazi vodka was completely overwhelmed by the excessive sweetness of the Lemon Drop cocktail with which it was mixed.

The Desserts:

There was no shortage of sweet temptations.  I returned to Leo's Latticini for a delightful bite-sized Strawberry Tart.

Leo's Latticini's Strawberry Tart

MitchMallows, Mitch Greenberg's iridescent marshmallows, produced a brief flashback to the '60s for me.  Perhaps they ought to be renamed MitchMellows.

MitchMallows

Keksies German traditional Christmas Cookies

Christmas in May?  Keksies afforded me a crunchy little taste of my heritage with their traditional German Christmas cookies.  Sandra and Hans Penz's restrained use of sugar results in cookies that impart a pleasing, not cloying, European sweetness.  Sehr lecker!

Sandra and Hans Penz

A few more familiar names and faces:

Bonne Fête Baking

Krumville Bake Shop

Brewla Bars

Josephine's Feast

I had to sample the tasty cheesecakes from Whitestone's Cascon Baking Company.  So much for my diet!

Cascon Baking Company's Cheesecakes

Uncle Peter's of Jackson Heights churned out a creamy Dulce de Leche Mousse that was, perhaps, my favorite dessert.  The sinfully rich heavy cream and the Oreo cookie crunch produced a playful textural contrast.

Uncle Peter's Dulce de Leche Mousse

For the Best Dessert award, the judges chose Tropisec, a Long Island City-based company that creates flowers and other edible designs from dried tropical fruits, such as mango, papaya, and pineapple.  One of founder Blanca Lilia Narváez's signature products consists of dried banana pieces mixed with unprocessed cocoa.

 

The Video:

The Conclusion:

"This was a fantastic event on so many levels," said QEDC Executive Director Seth Bornstein.  "The food, the beverages, the networking and the upbeat, almost giddy, atmosphere really couldn't be beaten.  Everybody had a great time, and we hope to build on this for next year."

Queens Taste 2012

Citi Field
123-01 Roosevelt Avenue (126^th St)
Flushing, N.Y.  11368   (map)

Tuesday, 1 May 2012, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

Links:

http://www.facebook.com/events/
http://www.discoverqueens.info
http://www.queensny.org/qedc/
http://www.facebook.com/discoverqueensny
http://twitter.com/qedc

Springtime Sangría

Sangría is a delightful quaff for a warm, spring get-together.  Served throughout Spain and Portugal, this alcoholic punch infuses bright, sunny fruit flavors into any convivial gathering.  While variations seem endless, personal preferences—fruit, wine, brandy, soda, and such—prevail ultimately.  Nevertheless, if you're seeking a superb springtime sangría suggestion, try the following refreshing recipe from my friend Darrin Siegfried:

• 2 bottles (750 ml) Bouchard Beaujolais Nouveau
• 4 ounces brandy, Port, or vodka, or to taste
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Juice of 1 orange
• ¼ cup superfine sugar, or more to taste
  (NB Don't use confectioners' sugar—it contains cornstarch that will render the drink cloudy)
• 16 ounces seltzer or club soda
• Ice cubes
• Thin slices of lemon & orange, halved, with extra for garnish
• Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish

In a large pitcher, combine all of the ingredients except the garnishes; stir well.  Serve in wine glasses (an attractive way to control portions!) and garnish with the fruit and mint.

Yield:  Approximately 2 quarts.
Calories:  Approximately 210 per 8-ounce serving.

Celebrate May Day at Queens Taste 2012

Mark your calendar and whet your appetite!  Queens Taste 2012, the borough's premiere food-and-networking event, will take place Tuesday, 1 May, from 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M. at Citi Field's Caesars Club in Flushing Meadows Corona Park.

Enjoy a broad spectrum of flavors and textures—from sweet to savory, Asian to Italian, and crunchy to creamy—served by the two-dozen participating establishments.  Sample, for instance, the vegetable samosas and chicken biryani of Baluchi's Indian Restaurant in Forest Hills, the duck confit  of Sunnyside's Dog & Duck, and the pistachio-crusted monkfish in lemon butter sauce of Uncle Peter's of Jackson Heights.

For dessert, try the Moroccan cookies, specialty ice pops, brownie lollipops, gourmet cupcakes, nut bars, designer marshmallows (!), and other artisanal treats of some 25 Entrepreneur Space clients.  (E-Space is the food-and-business incubator of the Queens Economic Development Center in Long Island City).

Hydrate (or dehydrate) yourself with a vast selection of beverages.  Taste local wines from the Queens County Farm Museum, and from the Castello di Borghese Vineyard on Long Island.  Throw back a few suds from Brooklyn Brewery and Manhattan Beer Distributors, but don't forget to sip the refreshing fermented teas from Astoria's Beyond Kombucha, and the Turkish coffee from the Turkish Cultural Center.

This year's restaurants include Austin's Steak & Ale House, Baluchi's Indian Restaurant, Bourbon Street, Dazies, Euro Grill & Salad Bar, F. Ottomanelli Burger & Belgian Fries, Giardino, La Bella Cucina, Leo's Latticini (Mama's of Corona), Magna Ristorante, Marbella, McClure's Pickles LLC, O Lavrador Restaurant & Bar, Papazzio, Pop Diner, Riverview Restaurant & Lounge, Russo's on the Bay, The Dog & Duck, Uncle Peter's, Vetro, and White Castle.

Five taste masters will select the Best Appetizer, the Best Entrée, and the Best Dessert.

Tickets to Queens Taste 2012 are priced $100 apiece, or $185 for two.  Proceeds support the Queens Economic Development Corporation's ongoing efforts to attract and maintain jobs in the borough through business services, neighborhood development, the Entrepreneur Space, and marketing attractions through the Queens Tourism Council, and the Discover Queens brand.  As QEDC is a 501 (c) (3) nonprofit, proceeds are tax deductable to the extent permitted by law.

To purchase tickets online, please visit www.queenstaste.eventbrite.com.  For more information, please visit www.discoverqueens.info, call (718) 263-0546, or send email to [email protected].

Queens Taste 2012

Caesars Club, Citi Field
123-01 Roosevelt Avenue (126^th St)
Flushing, N.Y.  11368   (map)

Tuesday, 1 May 2012, 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M.

http://www.queenstaste.eventbrite.com
http://www.facebook.com/events/
http://www.discoverqueens.info
http://www.queensny.org/qedc/
http://www.facebook.com/discoverqueensny
http://twitter.com/qedc

By train:  or LIRR to Mets-Willets Pt
By bus:  Q48

    * * *

To view last year's event, please click on the link:  A Taste of the World in Queens 2011.

IACP Culinary Expo and Book & Blog Festival

My month began with a fabulous foodist event in SoHo.  On Sunday, 1 April, over 100 exhibitors strutted their stuff at the Culinary Expo and Book & Blog Festival, part of a five-day conference celebrating "The Fashion of Food" by the International Association of Culinary Professionals.  The 2012 installment marked the 34^th anniversary of the IACP conference.

So much food and only four hours!  Not wishing to resurrect ancient Roman rituals, I refrained from sampling everything (though I was tempted).  Below are some of the highlights.

Roelli Cheese Haus's shelf-cured Red Rock

The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board offered several fine cheese samples as well as a Grilled Cheese Academy demo.

Carr Valley's Caso Bolo Mellage

Sartori's Pastorale Blend

Back in my SoHo days, it was called The French Culinary Institute.  Since that time, the school has expanded and broadened its scope to become The International Culinary Center.  Sampling their innovative Gazpacho evoked memories of dining at FCI's L'Ecole restaurant.  This unusual preparation comprised Greek yogurt, grapes, cucumbers, almonds, white bread, pickled shrimp, smoked paprika, olive oil, and sherry vinegar.

The International Culinary Center's Gazpacho

A few of the big names were on hand to demonstrate their wares.

Cuisinart's new Griddler turned out some tasty Reubens.

And, a little jolt to cure one's illys …

What more is there to say about this familiar name in the coffee world?

Or is Runa's guayusa more your cup of tea?  Made from a native Amazonian tree leaf, brewed guayusa packs more caffeine and twice the antioxidants of any other tea.

Left to Right: Spice, Ginger Citrus, Peppermint, Traditional

Kikkoman, another well-known brand, earned its fame with soy sauce.  Over the years, the company's product line has widened considerably.  I particularly enjoyed the fiery Thai Style Chili Sauce.

Left to Right: Thai Style Chili, Wasabi, and Sriracha

Strategically situated at the adjacent booth, Alaska Seafood served savory salmon sliders with Asian slaw that I spiced up with Kikkoman's Wasabi Sauce.  This was one of the highlights of the festival.

Alaska Seafood's Mini Salmon Sliders with Asian Slaw

From Berkeley, California, Diane Lee's 7th Taste infused olive oils contain no extracts or artificial flavorings.  Smooth and tasty!

Left to Right: Mushroom, Ancho Chili, Lavender, Truffle, Curry

"The chef's in the jar" with these hand-harvested, artisanal salts from Chef Salt.

Chef Salt Seasoning Blends

Nueske's applewood-smoked meats were a pleasant discovery.

With the recent addition of wild cherrywood-smoked bacon to their lineup, what's not to love?

Tanya L. Nueske, Executive Vice President

Don't forget the California veggies.  Let there be no confusion with regard to the proper pronunciation of endive.

"No, it's absolutely pronounced on-deev."

I am not now, nor do I plan to ever be, a vegan.  Nevertheless, these samples from Ella Nemcova's The Regal Vegan were quite alluring.  Best of all, at 50 calories, a one-ounce serving of the delectable Faux Gras walnut-lentil pâté contains only three grams of fat.  A guiltless pleasure!

Faux Gras: A Toasted Walnut-Lentil Pâté.

Basilicotta: A Basil-Cashew Cheese Spread

Pâté certainly pairs well with wine.  While there was no Sauternes in sight, there were a few sippable vinos from Brooklyn Oenology.

From fermented grapes to carbonated ginger.  Fresh Ginger, Ginger Ale by Bruce Cost is a refreshing alternative to mainstream sodas.  Unfiltered, and made with fresh ginger, this sparkling soft drink is as aptly named as it is delicious.  Other flavors include Jasmine Green Tea, Pomegranate (with Hibiscus), and Passion Fruit (with Turmeric).

Fresh Ginger Effervescence by Bruce Cost

A few more cheeses …

Kerrygold's Aged Cheddar with Irish Whiskey (left) and Dubliner (right)

Lucy's Whey offered several artisanal curds, including Capriole's Sofia (an ash-ripened chèvre), Consider Bardwell Farm's Pawlet, (a Vermont version of Toma), Vermont Creamery's Cremont (a cheese of blended goat's and cow's milk), and Jasper Hill Farm's Winnimere.

Lucy's Whey: American Artisanal Cheeses

I tried to save the sweets for last, but, sadly, I had reached my capacity before I could sample them.  They certainly looked good!

It was delightful to see a couple of familiar names and faces from the QEDC Entrepreneur Space.

Uliana and Maria of Santé Bakery

Josephine's Feast

Comestiblog wishes to extend special thanks to the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board.

IACP Culinary Expo and Book & Blog Festival

82 Mercer Street, SoHo, Manhattan  (map)

https://www.iacp.com/

Free Breakfast Mondays at IKEA

The price is hard to beat.  Every Monday morning, IKEA (pronounced EE·KAY·uh by those wishing to sound Nordic) serves a free hot breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, and potatoes from 9:30 till 11:00.  (The same 385-calorie breakfast plate costs only 99 cents the rest of the week.)

The fabulous views are included in the price!

Check your local IKEA store for details.  Some restrictions may apply.  Participation varies.

IKEA Brooklyn

1 Beard Street, Red Hook, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 246-4532

http://www.ikea.com/

By bus: B61

Top American City BBQ Breakdown

While every American city is sure to have a barbecue pit or two preferred by the locals, only a few have gone on to define their own nationally renowned style.  Contenders are plentiful, but four cities come to mind when the subject is how to heat and treat meat on the street.  The following is a brief rundown of the flavors one can find there.

Austin, TX

The hub of Texas state government is also where one finds representatives of every form of Lone Star BBQ that exists.  More than 60 individually owned restaurants of that sort litter the metro area, and serve up virtually every form of meat you can imagine.  The signature sweet-tangy taste of Texas-style sauce is almost as varied, with Franklin BBQ generally considered Austin's best.

Saint Louis, MO

Many BBQ enthusiasts snub the Gateway to the West on their top spots lists because a) the majority of barbecue joints there grill instead of coal heat and smoke, and b) the local preference is to drown the meat in sauce.  Be that as it may, Pappy's Smokehouse gets so backed up with locals and out-of-towners alike that customers can be sure to have a emergency food supply in case they run out of ribs.

Kansas City, MO

Kansas City is perhaps most celebrated for its BBQ, with Gates Bar-B-Q and Oklahoma Joe's becoming household names among enthusiasts.  The city's style makes for great long-term food in the fridge, as "thick" is the defining word for Kansas City barbecue.  The cuts are thick, the sauce is thick, and the wad of napkins you'll go through will also be thick.

Memphis, TN

While KC has an established BBQ history, it ultimately traces its roots back to Memphis, which has lately seen a resurgence in national attention paid to its favorite barbecue pit stops.  This is in part due to the current preference for a less-is-more approach to the sauce in combination with fall-off-the-bone tenderness, which many Memphis establishments that serve barbecue are noted for following.  Out of some 80 restaurants, Central BBQ and Corky's are the two head honchos, but expect to pay a little extra for the top-rated grub.

Not all American barbecue is created equal.  As the aforementioned list demonstrates, each city has its own style and preferences.  This list is by no means complete; it's merely a breakdown of the top four major cities noted for their particular brand of barbecue.  Hopefully, it encourages you to journey to these places for the experience, or remember to pop in to a preferred establishment if you ever find yourself visiting, but above all to pay close attention to what makes the BBQ of each region of this country its own distinct creation.

An April Fool's Day Comesticonundrum:  Was the foregoing penned by Comestiblog or by a "green" guest blogger?

My name is Amanda Green and I'm a guest writer.  I contacted this site after visiting.  I'm a big time foodie and love Comestiblog's humorous, insightful, and passionate approach to food.  Keep this blog in mind for informative and timely tips on all of your personal journey to foodie enlightenment.

A Fluke?

No, this is not another rant about a Georgetown law student.  Rather, it's a pictorial post of a marvelous meal I enjoyed recently:  Fluke Piccata.  Also known as summer flounder, fluke is found along the Atlantic Coast of the United States and Canada.  This particular flatfish specimen hailed from the waters off Long Island.  It was prepared with lemon, butter, and spices, topped with capers, and served with white beans.  Molto delizioso!

Valentine's Day Wine with Your Chocolates 2012

For a day full of chocolates, flowers, and other seductive pleasures, there's a wine that seems custom-made.  From its ruby-red color to its rose-petal bouquet and sweet effervescence, Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui captures the romance of Valentine's Day in a bottle.

With its sparkling hints of raspberry, strawberry, and rose, Rosa Regale offers an ideal complement to the inherent sweetness of chocolate.  Made entirely from Brachetto grapes grown at the La Rosa Vineyard in the town of Acqui Terme, in Italy's Piedmont region, the wine imparts a slight earthiness that pairs especially well with dark or bittersweet chocolate.  Its 7% ABV even makes it easy to drink by itself.  Flavorful, fizzy, and fun, Rosa Regale adds sensuality to Valentine's Day, or to any other sweet occasion.

Rosa Regale

http://www.rosaregale.com/

Valentine's Day Chocolates for Your Sweetie 2012

With an increasing number of fine chocolates available these days, it's often difficult to seek out a favorite.  Occasionally, however, one finds superb indulgences fortuitously.  Such was the case at this year's Boston Wine Expo, at which I discovered Chocolate Springs, producer of some of the most exquisite artisanal chocolates to delight my palate in recent years.

Joshua Needleman handcrafts his nearly 30 bonbon varieties using the finest, fresh, all-natural ingredients, without adding preservatives.  An alumnus of The Culinary Institute of America and La Maison du Chocolat (in both Manhattan and Paris), he realized his lifelong dream when, in 2003, he opened Chocolate Springs Café in the Berkshire town of Lenox, Massachusetts.  Three years later, Mr. Needleman was recognized by Saveur as one the country's top ten artisanal chocolatiers.  Since then, his wares have been mentioned in TIME, Travel + Leisure, Elle Decor, and most notably, Comestiblog.

Chocolate Springs Café

Lenox Commons
55 Pittsfield Road (U.S. Rtes. 7 & 20)
Lenox, MA   01240-2122  (map)

(413) 637-9820

http://www.chocolatesprings.com/

QEDC Entrepreneur Space Celebrates Its First Anniversary

The Queens Economic Development Corporation celebrated its Entrepreneur Space's first anniversary on 25 January 2012 with an open party featuring clients' food samples, lively interaction, and a collector's frozen birthday cake.  It was an occasion to speak with numerous business owners who have utilized the E-Space to launch or further their food ventures.

Situated in Long Island City, Queens, the Entrepreneur Space opened officially on 19 January 2011.  One year later, the 12,500-square-foot, city-sponsored, food-and-business incubator boasts roughly 175 clients.  Many take advantage of the round-the-clock commercial kitchen (replete with culinary essentials ranging from a walk-in refrigerator to basic utensils), while others avail themselves of the workstations and classroom space.  In addition, many participate in free business counseling, technical assistance, and financial classes.

My tour began with Dan and Rebecca Dengrove's refreshing frozen Brewla Bars.  Unlike many iced fruit pops, these are produced from brewed beverages and, most important, are not overly sweet.

The Hero: Cherry Pomegranate Red Tea

While I didn't taste the next product myself, Comestidog wagged with approval upon taking a bite of the all-natural Ruv Roos from Woofshire Farms.

Among the standouts of the afternoon was the all-natural skordaliá from Samios Foods.  The vegan Go Go's Garlic Dips were simply delicious!  Happily for me, they're available at Whole Foods Markets in the Tri-State Area.

Left to Right: Original, Olive & Rosemary, Roasted Red Pepper, and Dill

As I continued to wend my way through the E-Space, I tasted samples at nearly every table.

Larry's Mix, Gwen's Batch, and Original MIx from Brooklyn Nuts

In the large kitchen space, I found Viva Natural's pão de queijo.  The yummy Portuguese baked cheese rolls beckoned me to return for seconds, thirds, …

At the next table, I slurped Lane Li's delicious Sichuan-style Dan Dan Noodles: egg noodles served with a bold savory sauce and chili oil, topped with sautéed minced pork, Sichuan pickled vegetable, bean sprouts, and scallions.  This dish delivered a spicy burst of flavor with every bite.

Lane Li, founder of Noodle Lane, serves Dan Dan Noodles

A few more tastes …

Grown in Brooklyn: Barry's Tempeh

The Chocolate Swirl's Double Decker Brownies

And a potent cocktail made with artisanal confiture from Josephine's Feast!

One of the catchiest names I encountered was that of Texas-native "Super Duper" Mary Cooper.  Her HappySnax were simple, yet enjoyable.

Super Duper Mary Cooper's HappySnax

Going for the gold …

Zoha Hopps uses "a secret family recipe" to make his Goldleaf toffee

Goldleaf showed off some of the event's most elegant packaging.  Their toffee was rather good, too.

Dark Chocolate with Cayenne

More sweets …

Chee Bonnet's Ultimate Cheesecake Balls

Artisanal gluten-free baked goods from Krumville Bake Shop

And something spicy.  The handcrafted sauces of NYC Hot Sauce Company ignited my palate with their piquancy.

Jon Bratton's fiery NYC Hot Sauce

I was delighted to spot a couple of familiar names from last year's Queens…A Taste of the World.

Award winner: Bonne Fête Baking, 2011 Best Dessert at Queens…A Taste of the World (video)

Bianca Naclerio of Sweet N Salty By Design

The festivities also included the unveiling of a chocolate cake—roughly four inches in diameter, topped with a sugary violet flower and a green leaf—from Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor's 60^th birthday party in February 1992.

The pastry was frozen soon after the gala, and remains in excellent condition.  It was lent to the Entrepreneur Space by author Jane Scovell.

Entrepreneur Space

36-46 37^th Street
Long Island City, NY  11101-1606  (map)

(212) 452-1866

https://www.queensny.org/qedc/entrepreneur_space/

Happy Year of the Dragon!

Gong Xi Fa Cai!  Or, if you prefer Cantonese to Mandarin, Gong Hey Fat Choy!  Regardless of how you pronounce it, here's wishing you a Happy Chinese New Year!

Ba bao fan (pronounced bah·bou·FUN), or eight-treasure rice, is a traditional dessert with which to celebrate the occasion.  A mound of glutinous rice with a red bean paste center, crowned with eight jewels (usually almonds, walnuts, melon seeds, dates, raisins, dried apricots, and other dried fruits), this sweet course represents a precious way to ring in the new lunar year.

Happy Year of the Dragon!

Learn to pronounce and to write "Gong Xi Fa Cai" in Chinese:

http://goodcharacters.com/newsletters/gong-xi-fa-cai.html

ClubW - The End of the Wine Snob Era?

Upon hearing of my invitation to a tasting for a Web 2.0 wine club whose founding purports to mark "the end of the wine snob era," my Comestaccomplice rejoined, "that would exclude you!"  While I'd not consider myself a snob, I do enjoy good wines.  Thus, I was curious to learn how ClubW distinguishes itself from the seemingly endless vintages of subscription services.

Cofounder Mark T. Lynn describes ClubW's mission

What is a good wine?  My usual reply to that enduring question is, "if you like it, it's good."  ClubW explores that notion further by showcasing affordable wines from lesser-known producers, and offering unpretentious guidance by knowledgeable sommeliers.  There's even a smart-phone app that plays a descriptive, corresponding video when a wine label's QR code is scanned.  In addition to merchandising wine, the club also provides an online community through which contemporary, like-minded œnophiles can connect and share the joys of swirling and sipping.  Let's taste!

Of the five selections I sampled that evening, four were from California.  I began with the 2010 Jeanne D'Arc California Chenin Blanc, an unfiltered, cloudy, orange wine.  A fashionable quaff for fashionable quaffers, it bears little resemblance to a traditional Chenin Blanc.  Its nose, for example, reveals olfactory hints more suggestive of the sea than of the honeysuckle one would expect from, say, a Vouvray.  And while the tasting notes described its flavors as being "vaguely reminiscent of bourbon," I found them to be more reminiscent of a hard cider—somewhere between apple and pear.  Although this wine may never rank among my favorites, it was fun to discuss as well as to drink.

The next pour came from a bottle of 2010 Infinite Monkey Theorem Albariño.  Well established in Iberia, this grape has found a more recent home in California.  Unlike the floral nose of its Spanish counterpart, however, the ripe pear bouquet of this Lodi varietal yielded an aroma similar to—albeit vastly milder than—that of a Poire William.  On the palate, the wine again seemed to diverge from the flowery flavors I've come to associate with an Albariño.  This refreshing departure represented a sort of interpolation of flavors between those of a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Grigio.

My first red of the evening was the 2009 Folk Machine Central Coast Pinot Noir.  I could hear the California bear's roar as I raised my glass and took my first sip.  With considerable smoke and residual sweetness on the palate, there is nothing timid about this Monterey Pinot Noir.  A popular ClubW selection, it would seem well suited to an informal social gathering.

Hailing from Colorado, the 2010 Infinite Monkey Theorem Malbec was the tasting's only non-Californian.  Rich and full, with strong hints of mocha, this red is, according to the tasting notes, "as dark as the halls of Mordor."  At $24.99, however, it would seem like an expensive hobbit.  In light of the fact that the price of a highly drinkable Malbec from Argentina or Cahors (its ancestral home) is roughly half that of the IMT, the Coloradan might appear less attractive.  Regardless, I can now boast of having tasted a Malbec from the Rocky Mountain State.  Could that make me a wine snob?

The 2010 Three Ceremonies Red Wine ended the evening on a slightly sweet note.  While not so sweet as a dessert wine, this Golden State variant of a Southern Rhône displays plenty of fruit and reveals hints of sweet plum.  Its blend of Carignan, Syrah, and Zinfandel served as a luscious partner to the chocolate we were offered.

When I asked a few attendees how likely they were to join ClubW, responses varied.  While some told me they would definitely join because they liked the online video descriptions, others felt that New York's vast array of wine options obviates the need to join a club.  What do you think?

ClubW

http://www.clubw.com/

"Seasoned" Greetings 2011

Dutch Haven Shoofly Pies

It was not a lawless giant who meant to do battle with me.  Rather, it was an old-fashioned roadside attraction with gesticulatory arms that beckoned me to stop.  For more than half a century, the iconic Dutch Haven windmill has waved at cars and horse-drawn buggies traveling along the Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania's Dutch Country.

This Lancaster County landmark began as a gas station with an adjoining ice cream stand in the '20s.  When Roy and Alice Weaver bought the business in 1946, they opened a restaurant that featured Pennsylvania Dutch fare, and added a gift shop.  After Dutch Haven's fortunes had declined, however, Paul Stahl purchased the property in 1991 and began selling Amish furniture, crafts, and kitschy souvenirs.  Though he closed the restaurant, he reinstated its most famous item: shoofly pie.

Lois Schrock hands me a slice of shoofly pie

Using Alice Weaver's original recipe of white flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and refiners' syrup, Stahl purports to produce "America's best shoofly pie."  Never having tried the molasses-based confection, I was eager for my first taste.  As I made my way to the counter, Lois Schrock, a Dutch Haven fixture, handed me a sample of the gooey goody.

Served slightly warm with a dollop of whipped cream, the pie delivered surprisingly complex flavors that stimulated my tongue.  Instead of being cloying, it was agreeably sweet, with a richness that even afforded slight hints of umami.  Its viscid filling, offset by a thick crust and a crumb topping, yielded a palate-pleasing plate of textural contrasts.  While I normally eschew sugary desserts, I'm happy to have not es-shooed this one.

Pies are available whole or by the slice

It's hard to determine whether Dutch Haven's shoofly pies are truly America's best.  Suffice it to say, however, that all others I've tasted thereafter have left me tilting toward the ones beneath the windmill.

Dutch Haven

2857A Lincoln Highway East (U.S. 30)
Ronks, PA   17572-9607   (map)

(717) 687-0111

https://www.dutchhaven.com/

Dinah Shore sings "Shoo-Fly Pie and Apple Pan Dowdy" (1946)

Comestiblab: There are a couple of explanations regarding the origin of the pie's name.  One theory maintains that shoofly (also shoo-fly) pie originated in France, where its crumb topping was said to resemble a cauliflower, or chou-fleur (pronounced shoo·FLUR) in French.  Supposedly, the word eventually morphed into "shoofly."  A more plausible explanation, however, is that the sweet ingredients attracted flies that had to be shooed away.

Comestiblab:  Pennsylvania Dutch isn't Dutch at all—it's an alteration of Deutsch, the German word for German.  The term refers to descendants of the people who emigrated from southwestern Germany to Pennsylvania during the seventeenth and and eighteenth centuries.  It also refers to a German dialect spoken in Amish communities.  Thus, it would seem a Dutch windmill is somehow out of place in Pennsylvania Deutsch country.

Soup and Bread Returns to Brooklyn

Soup & Bread is blowing back into Brooklyn from the Windy City today, 17 November 2011.  After making her New York debut in Brooklyn last year, organizer Martha Bayne returns to the borough to ladle out soup and promote her new book, Soup & Bread Cookbook: Building Community One Pot at a Time.  Part cookbook, part social history, her publication contains recipes, a brief history of soup, and an exploration of the social role of soup in our culture.

Begun in Chicago, Soup & Bread brings together chefs, musicians, and artists to prepare and distribute soups to help foster community and raise money for charity.

This evening's event takes place from 6:00 till 8:00 at littlefield on Degraw Street.  Donations are suggested, and all proceeds will benefit the New York City Coalition Against Hunger (NYCCAH).

Littlefield Performance and Art Space

622 Degraw Street (between 3^rd & 4^th Avs), Gowanus, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 855-3388

http://www.littlefieldnyc.com/

By train:  to Union St
By bus:  B63

Additional information:

Soup & Bread
http://www.nyccah.org/