Gong Xi Fa Cai! Or, if you prefer Cantonese to Mandarin, Gong Hey Fat Choy! Regardless of how you pronounce it, here's wishing you a Happy Chinese New Year!
Ba bao fan (pronounced bah·bou·FUN), or eight-treasure rice, is a traditional dessert with which to celebrate the occasion. A mound of glutinous rice with a red bean paste center, crowned with eight jewels (usually almonds, walnuts, melon seeds, dates, raisins, dried apricots, and other dried fruits), this sweet course represents a precious way to ring in the new lunar year.
Happy Year of the Dragon!
Learn to pronounce and to write "Gong Xi Fa Cai" in Chinese:
Upon hearing of my invitation to a tasting for a Web 2.0 wine club whose founding purports to mark "the end of the wine snob era," my Comestaccomplice rejoined, "that would exclude you!" While I'd not consider myself a snob, I do enjoy good wines. Thus, I was curious to learn how ClubW distinguishes itself from the seemingly endless vintages of subscription services.
Cofounder Mark T. Lynn describes ClubW's mission
What is a good wine? My usual reply to that enduring question is, "if you like it, it's good." ClubW explores that notion further by showcasing affordable wines from lesser-known producers, and offering unpretentious guidance by knowledgeable sommeliers. There's even a smart-phone app that plays a descriptive, corresponding video when a wine label's QR code is scanned. In addition to merchandising wine, the club also provides an online community through which contemporary, like-minded œnophiles can connect and share the joys of swirling and sipping. Let's taste!
Of the five selections I sampled that evening, four were from California. I began with the 2010 Jeanne D'Arc California Chenin Blanc, an unfiltered, cloudy, orange wine. A fashionable quaff for fashionable quaffers, it bears little resemblance to a traditional Chenin Blanc. Its nose, for example, reveals olfactory hints more suggestive of the sea than of the honeysuckle one would expect from, say, a Vouvray. And while the tasting notes described its flavors as being "vaguely reminiscent of bourbon," I found them to be more reminiscent of a hard cider—somewhere between apple and pear. Although this wine may never rank among my favorites, it was fun to discuss as well as to drink.
The next pour came from a bottle of 2010 Infinite Monkey Theorem Albariño. Well established in Iberia, this grape has found a more recent home in California. Unlike the floral nose of its Spanish counterpart, however, the ripe pear bouquet of this Lodi varietal yielded an aroma similar to—albeit vastly milder than—that of a Poire William. On the palate, the wine again seemed to diverge from the flowery flavors I've come to associate with an Albariño. This refreshing departure represented a sort of interpolation of flavors between those of a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Grigio.
My first red of the evening was the 2009 Folk Machine Central Coast Pinot Noir. I could hear the California bear's roar as I raised my glass and took my first sip. With considerable smoke and residual sweetness on the palate, there is nothing timid about this Monterey Pinot Noir. A popular ClubW selection, it would seem well suited to an informal social gathering.
Hailing from Colorado, the 2010 Infinite Monkey Theorem Malbec was the tasting's only non-Californian. Rich and full, with strong hints of mocha, this red is, according to the tasting notes, "as dark as the halls of Mordor." At $24.99, however, it would seem like an expensive hobbit. In light of the fact that the price of a highly drinkable Malbec from Argentina or Cahors (its ancestral home) is roughly half that of the IMT, the Coloradan might appear less attractive. Regardless, I can now boast of having tasted a Malbec from the Rocky Mountain State. Could that make me a wine snob?
The 2010 Three Ceremonies Red Wine ended the evening on a slightly sweet note. While not so sweet as a dessert wine, this Golden State variant of a Southern Rhône displays plenty of fruit and reveals hints of sweet plum. Its blend of Carignan, Syrah, and Zinfandel served as a luscious partner to the chocolate we were offered.
When I asked a few attendees how likely they were to join ClubW, responses varied. While some told me they would definitely join because they liked the online video descriptions, others felt that New York's vast array of wine options obviates the need to join a club. What do you think?
It was not a lawless giant who meant to do battle with me. Rather, it was an old-fashioned roadside attraction with gesticulatory arms that beckoned me to stop. For more than half a century, the iconic Dutch Haven windmill has waved at cars and horse-drawn buggies traveling along the Lincoln Highway in Pennsylvania's Dutch Country.
This Lancaster County landmark began as a gas station with an adjoining ice cream stand in the '20s. When Roy and Alice Weaver bought the business in 1946, they opened a restaurant that featured Pennsylvania Dutch fare, and added a gift shop. After Dutch Haven's fortunes had declined, however, Paul Stahl purchased the property in 1991 and began selling Amish furniture, crafts, and kitschy souvenirs. Though he closed the restaurant, he reinstated its most famous item: shoofly pie.
Lois Schrock hands me a slice of shoofly pie
Using Alice Weaver's original recipe of white flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, and refiners' syrup, Stahl purports to produce "America's best shoofly pie." Never having tried the molasses-based confection, I was eager for my first taste. As I made my way to the counter, Lois Schrock, a Dutch Haven fixture, handed me a sample of the gooey goody.
Served slightly warm with a dollop of whipped cream, the pie delivered surprisingly complex flavors that stimulated my tongue. Instead of being cloying, it was agreeably sweet, with a richness that even afforded slight hints of umami. Its viscid filling, offset by a thick crust and a crumb topping, yielded a palate-pleasing plate of textural contrasts. While I normally eschew sugary desserts, I'm happy to have not es-shooed this one.
Pies are available whole or by the slice
It's hard to determine whether Dutch Haven's shoofly pies are truly America's best. Suffice it to say, however, that all others I've tasted thereafter have left me tilting toward the ones beneath the windmill.
Dutch Haven
2857A Lincoln Highway East (U.S. 30) Ronks, PA 17572-9607 (map)
Dinah Shore sings "Shoo-Fly Pie and Apple Pan Dowdy" (1946)
Comestiblab: There are a couple of explanations regarding the origin of the pie's name. One theory maintains that shoofly (also shoo-fly) pie originated in France, where its crumb topping was said to resemble a cauliflower, or chou-fleur (pronounced shoo·FLUR) in French. Supposedly, the word eventually morphed into "shoofly." A more plausible explanation, however, is that the sweet ingredients attracted flies that had to be shooed away.
Comestiblab: Pennsylvania Dutch isn't Dutch at all—it's an alteration of Deutsch, the German word for German. The term refers to descendants of the people who emigrated from southwestern Germany to Pennsylvania during the seventeenth and and eighteenth centuries. It also refers to a German dialect spoken in Amish communities. Thus, it would seem a Dutch windmill is somehow out of place in Pennsylvania Deutsch country.
Soup & Bread is blowing back into Brooklyn from the Windy City today, 17 November 2011. After making her New York debut in Brooklyn last year, organizer Martha Bayne returns to the borough to ladle out soup and promote her new book, Soup & Bread Cookbook: Building Community One Pot at a Time. Part cookbook, part social history, her publication contains recipes, a brief history of soup, and an exploration of the social role of soup in our culture.
Begun in Chicago, Soup & Bread brings together chefs, musicians, and artists to prepare and distribute soups to help foster community and raise money for charity.
In early September, 45 executive chefs and culinary leaders embarked on a tour of France to immerse themselves in French culture as well as to hone their Gallic cooking skills. They visited renowned vineyards, food producers, and restaurants. Starting in Paris, the Omni group attended Palais des Thés tea training; visited caves at famed Champagne maker Nicolas Feuillatte and winemaker Maison Champy in Burgundy; toured vineyards and participated in the harvest in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux, including Domaine Pascal Jolivet, Domaine de la Perrière, Le Club Mouton Cadet, Château Belgrave, and Château Cantemerle; and learned about mustard preparation with Moutarde Fallot.
Left to Right: Daven Wardynski, John Brand, and Ron Ulczak
Three of Omni's top executive chefs—Daven Wardynski of 676, Chicago; John Brand of Las Canarias, San Antonio; and Ron Ulczak of Fireside, New York—demonstrated their craft, and served up a delicious selection of flavors from the new menu. Below is a taste of my dégustation.
A great way to whet one's appetite and wet his whistle is with a glass or three of Champagne. I've always enjoyed the bubbles of Nicolas Feuillatte and am particularly fond of the rosé.
Nicolas Feuillatte Champagnes: Rosé (left) and Brut (right)
I began with the gougères, one of my favorite hors d'œuvre. It always seems impossible to eat just one of these savory little cheese pastries. With perfect texture and just the right degree of cheese intensity, these gougères went quickly, and provided a good indication of what was to follow.
Gougères
The Butternut Squash Soup, made with apple cider, was simple and seasonal. The cream on top made it smooth and sinful as well. What a fine dish to warm an autumn day.
Butternut Squash Soup
I found the Salad with Duck Confit and Roasted Beets to be incommensurate with the other offerings. The fowl was slightly chewy, and its flavors lacked the richness I expected from a preparation of this sort.
Salad with Duck Confit and Roasted Beets
Chef Daven Wardynski discusses the preparation of his Wild Mushroom Ragoût rolls
Combining several varieties of mushroom within fried feuilles de brick, the Wild Mushroom Ragoût rolls with Chervil Butter Sauce were a wildly appetizing starter.
Wild Mushroom Ragoût Roll with Chervil Butter
Chef John Brand describes his Magret de Canard
One of the highlights of the afternoon was the succulent Magret de Canard (duck breast). Flavorful and cooked to perfection, it paired beautifully with berry-and-black currant flavors of the Maison Bouachon Côtes-du-Rhône Les Rabassières 2009 (60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre). Très bien.
Magret de Canard
Perhaps the most successful dish that afternoon, however, was the Short Ribs of Wagyū Beef. Braised in red wine with pearl onions and baby carrots, this exquisite adaptation of the classic Bœuf Bourguignon played like a symphony on the palate. Nowhere are the benefits of slow cooking more evident than in this flavorful, tender, melt-in-the-mouth concoction. Merveilleux!
Braised Short Ribs of Beef
Chef Daven Wardynski talks about preparing Loup de Mer
The next tasty preparation came from the sea. The Loup de Mer (Mediterranean sea bass; literally, "wolf of the sea") was flaky, with skin that was seared to a delicious golden-brown. While I found the dish to be nicely seasoned, some might have deemed it a bit salty. In any case, the fish and its accompanying confit of baby potatoes, morels, and Carmellini beans benefited from the slight acidity of the Fallot mustard sauce. Délicieux.
Loup de Mer
And more from the sea. My loyal reader will recall that, owing to a food allergy, scallops are, alas, not part of my diet. Who knows, these may have been the best sea scallops I never ate.
Seared Sea Scallops
Beyond discussing French cooking, Chef Daven Wardynski talked about the importance of local sourcing and preparation. He implements the farm-to-table concept at the most local level by using his rooftop garden in Chicago to grow the produce for his restaurant.
Chef Daven Wardynski discusses the importance of local sourcing
Before advancing to the sweet course, I sampled the cheeses—all eight of them. The selection from Murray's included the malodorous Époisses, the pungent Pont-l'Évêque, the aromatic-yet-mild Morbier, the regal Comté Saint-Antoine, the assertive Bleu d'Auvergne, the pyramidal (goat's milk) Valençay, the triple-crème (75% butterfat) Brillat-Savarin, and the nutty Secret du Couvent. It was hard to pick a favorite.
Left to Right: Bleu d'Auvergne, Valençay, Brillat-Savarin, and Secret du Couvent.
Finally, it was time for dessert. The rich, creamy, Valrhona Chocolate Pot de Crème with fresh berries afforded a decadent ending to this epicurean extravaganza. As in France, the finish was sweet without being cloying. Supremely silky and satisfying. Magnifique!
Chocolate Pot de Crème
I saved one of the custom-crafted cocktails for last. The creamy blend of Chambord, Chambord Vodka, fresh raspberries, half-and-half, and a touch of ice cream was a playful variation of a milkshake. It was a veritable second dessert.
Chambord "Milkshake"
Omni created this program through a partnership with the French Ministry of Agriculture & Fisheries, represented by Sopexa USA, an agency dedicated to the promotion of French food, wine, and lifestyle in the United States.
Omni's "Simmer Sauté Santé" package, available at select hotels and resorts, offers a culinary immersion weekend including deluxe accommodations, a wine-and-cheese welcome, a cooking and wine-pairing demonstration with an Omni chef, an all-inclusive French dinner, and a thank-you gift with aprons, French wine, recipes, and a micro-planer. Another guest package—"French Toast!"–is offered over New Year's Eve only, enabling guests to enjoy a French dinner with Champagne to ring in the New Year, breakfast with a Champagne cocktail, and a late check-out upon request. Both packages range from $299 to $700.
To learn more about "Simmer Sauté Santé - The Flavors of France," including menus, wine lists, photos and videos from the trip and recipes, visit Omni's Culinary Stirrings website. Guests can also visit omnihotels.com or call 1-800-THE-OMNI. Follow Omni Hotels & Resorts at twitter.com/omnihotels or at twitter.com/omnihotelsPR.
Have you heard about the FDA's latest attack on nutritional supplements? If enough of us don't comment by 1 October 2011, that agency could take anything developed after 1994 off the market, including the coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) that helped extend the life of a loved one of mine.
It's the quintessential New York experience: enjoying Basque-style tapas, prepared by a Hawaiian chef, in a TRONesque setting, on the terrace of a swank hotel (with a doorman standing watch at the velveteen-roped entryway), while viewing videos on a 35-foot outdoor high-definition LED screen. That's the vibe at Bar Basque, a trendy, upscale spot for superb food and drink near Herald Square in Midtown Manhattan. My Comestaccomplice and I had the pleasure of sampling Executive Chef Yuhi Fujinaga's summer menu recently as guests of Bar Basque.
Opened 14 October 2010 on the second floor of Eventi (a Kimpton Hotel), Bar Basque features an extensive terrace lounge dining area with expansive windows. Entering the space, however, is like stepping into a science fiction film. The incarnadine walls and dim lighting are the work of Syd Mead, an acclaimed film and conceptual designer. His influences in films like Blade Runner, Aliens, and TRON are morphed into the restaurant's high-tech design. Some passageways—such as the ones to the rest rooms—are so dark as to require navigational assistance from members of the helpful staff. (Collisions are not uncommon.) The lounge and outdoor dining terrace (achieved with the aid of retractable windows), however, afford ample light by which to dine, imbibe, and schmooze.
To whet our appetites and accompany our first courses, we selected a light, slightly effervescent Basque wine. The refreshing frizzante crackle of the Ameztoi Txakoli Getariako 2009 ($42) invites comparison with its less complex trans-Iberian cousin Vinho Verde. With light food, or by itself, it's a delightful summer wine.
Offering over 40 tapas selections, the menu also contains a variety of grilled fresh fish, shellfish, and meat items. Our tasting menu consisted of four courses—each with its own wow factor—reflecting Chef Fujinaga's interpretation of a casual alfresco dining experience of seasonal specialities from Spain's Basque region.
Idiazabal Cheese Croquettes
Our first course comprised Idiazabal Cheese Croquettes (croquetas de queso Idiazabal) and Yellowfin Tuna Tartare "Push Pops" with Red Wine Caviar (tartare de atun en "push pop" con caviar de vino tinto). The croquettes ($8) were beautiful creations that succeeded both in texture and in flavor. Their smooth, creamy interior provided a sublime contrast to the exquisite crispness of the crust. The cream-to-crunch sensation, together with the mild, subtle piquancy of the sheep's milk cheese, conspired to produce an incredibly delicious starter. And with its bright, sparkling flavors, the wine was a perfect match.
Yellowfin Tuna Tartare "Push Pops," Red Wine Caviar
The "push pops" of yellowfin tuna, tomato, red wine caviar, anchovies, and pepper ($9) were a visually appealing and fun treat that tasted heavenly! The combination of flavors and textures was as refreshingly playful as it was tasty. We mused over whether the additional saltiness of plain caviar would have yielded a better balance of flavors against the sweetness of the tuna. The jury is still out, but then, why should we try to fix something that isn't broken?
Yellowfin Tuna Crudo, Ajo Blanco, Chimichurri
Our second course consisted of Yellowfin Tuna Crudo, Ajo Blanco, Chimichurri (atun con ajo blanco y tximitxurri); Sea Scallop Crudo, Black Olives, Preserved Lemon (vieiras con aceitunas negras y limon en conserva); Octopus, Black Olives, Tomato Confit, Extra Virgin Olive Oil (pulpo con aceitunas negras, confit the tomate, aceite de olive extra virgin); and Spanish Mackerel, Escabèche-Style, Shallots, Chiles, Coriander Seeds (jurel en escabeche de chalotas, chiles y semillas de coriandro).
Yellowfin Tuna can never miss as long as it's fresh—and this was about as fresh as it gets. When raw tuna is this good, the concern is that any addition, especially something as bright and complex as chimichurri, will mask the delicacy of the fish. Such fears, however, would be unfounded with Chef Fujinaga's tuna crudo ($12). The white garlic sauce and chimichurri added liveliness to the tuna's sweetness, rather than masking it. This presentation could not have been more enjoyable.
Sea Scallop Crudo, Black Olives, Preserved Lemon
Based on the impeccable freshness of all the other seafood, the scallops ($12) were undoubtedly of similar stellar quality. While allergies prevented us from attesting personally to these mollusks, we can vouch for their garnish. The toasted, crumbled black olives were as tasty as they were creative. The smokiness added by toasting is a brilliant enhancement of the olive's intrinsically rich, earthy flavor, and a perfect foil to a lemon concentrate. This is something that would probably serve as a great garnish for swordfish or trout as well.
"Canned" seafood: Octopus (top) and Spanish Mackerel (bottom)
The Octopus ($8) and the Spanish Mackerel ($8) shared an innovative presentation: a sardine can, replete with an attached key. The lid lifted off, however—no rolling back was necessary.
Octopus, Black Olives, Tomato Confit, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Octopus wants to be the tofu of seafood; it's typically paired with a very interesting marinade or vinaigrette, with the idea that the bland meat will absorb the sauce, and the resulting whole will be greater than the sum of its parts. Alas, neither of us has ever met an octopus preparation that realized that ideal, and this one was no exception. No amount of marination seems to be able to penetrate this cephalopod's dense flesh. Although the black olives and the confit of cherry tomatoes did their best to keep this octopus from foundering, we were left, ultimately, with a taste of marinade, followed by a stint of bland, rubbery mastication.
The "canned" Spanish Mackerel, on the other hand, was highly enjoyable. It was yet another superb dish that melted in our mouths. Not only did the accompanying shallots provide a pleasing contrast to the fish, they could also be used to enhance the flavor of the aforementioned octopus.
The third course came with more heft, and a wine to match. Our second bottle, again Basque, was a Gorka Izagirre Txakoli Bizkaiko 2009 ($45). While the card described it as having a medium body, we found this wine's body to be closer to full. Perhaps we should have stayed with the previous, lighter wine.
Smoked Trout A La Plancha, Jamón Butter
Our penultimate course comprised Smoked Trout A La Plancha, Jamón Butter (trucha ahumada a la plancha, mantequilla de jamón); Slow-Braised Pork Belly, Baby Clams, Albariño Wine Sauce (tocino asado con almejas, salsa de viño albariño); and Heirloom Tomato Salad, Dandelion, Pedro Ximénez Sherry Vinegar, Mediterranean Sea Salt (ensalada de tomate de granja, vinagre pedro ximénez, sal del mediterraneo).
The trout ($12), grilled to a luscious golden-brown, shared the plate with a well-matched caviar garnish. While I thoroughly enjoyed the smoky, spiciness of the fish along with its accompanying salmon roe, my Comestaccomplice found it good, but a bit salty.
The divine Hampshire Pork Belly ($12) was one of the most ethereal dishes we'd enjoyed in a long time. Fat is not commonly welcome as a garnish, let alone as the main event. But the slice of meat comprised at least two-thirds fat, enveloping impossibly tender flesh. The flavoring was extremely subtle—perhaps little more than the wine and a touch of salt. How can something be so rich, yet so light and delicate at once? The baby clams were especially succulent thanks to the pork juices. Furthermore, their slight chewiness was a perfect foil to the adiposity of the pork belly. This outrageously satisfying dish was easily our favorite of the evening.
Heirloom Tomato Salad, Dandelion, Pedro Ximénez Sherry Vinegar, Mediterranean Sea Salt
The generously sized Heirloom Tomato Salad ($10) was garden-fresh and dressed appropriately. Its very simple preparation made it a perfect palate cleanser for all the complexity and richness that preceded it. The salad achieved a delicate balance of flavors among the sweet tomatoes, the lightly acidic vinaigrette, and the subtly bitter dandelion greens.
Dessert: Leche Frita (top) and Piña Colada (bottom)
Our marvelous meal came to a sweet close with the fourth course comprising Piña Colada, Coconut Flan, Pineapple Salad, Rum Caramel (piña colada); and Fried Milk, Passion Fruit Reduction, Chocolate Ganache (leche frita).
Piña Colada, Coconut Flan, Pineapple Salad, Rum Caramel
Flan is a favorite dessert, and pineapple a favorite fruit. Thus, there was little chance for this dish to fail. Much of this meal showcased contrasting textures and flavors. In this case, the Piña Colada ($9) played the smoothness of the custard against crunchiness of the pineapple. The use of coconut afforded exceptional richness without the usual cloying sweetness. Chef Fujinaga exhibited European restraint, delivering a highly refreshing dessert in which the various sweet nuances cavorted on the palate harmoniously with the acidity of the pineapple.
Fried Milk, Passion Fruit Reduction, Chocolate Ganache
The Leche Frita ($9) was a sweet bookend to the savory cheese croquettes with which we began. Again, the texture was flawlessly smooth. Furthermore, the two sauces were lovely complements—both visually and gustatorily—to the fried milk, as well as being pleasant contrasts to each other: tangy fruit versus velvety, rich chocolate.
It's highly unusual for any restaurant to thrill my palate so completely from start to finish. It goes without saying that my Comestaccomplice and I enjoyed basking in the seasonal gastronomic delights of Bar Basque, and look forward to exploring the menu further.
The tapas dinner menu is served Sunday through Thursday from 4:00 P.M. till 10:00 P.M., and Friday and Saturday from 4:00 P.M. till 11:00 P.M.
Pop quiz: Where can one find America's only gelato-on-a-stick? Pop answer: popbar in Manhattan's West Village. Combining innovation with the tradition of his native Italy, Reuben BenJehuda introduced the popular Florentine-inspired gelato concept to New York when he and Daniel Yaghoubi opened popbar in May, 2010. Their handcrafted frozen treats make a great summer refresher or a delicious dessert. I was invited to sample some recently.
The display case affords a large, colorful selection of popbar's 26 rotating flavors. Not only are the pops attractive, fresh, and delicious, they're also kosher certified and made from natural ingredients only—no preservatives, gluten, artificial coloring, or artificial sweeteners are used. PopGelato and yogurtPop bars ($4.50) contain hormone-free milk; popSorbetti ($3.75) contain over 70 percent real fruit and no added sugar. Everything is made daily on the premises.
With the assistance of a "Popologist" at the custom bar, one can choose "poppings" and "dippings" to design a personal "myPop." Poppings include chopped hazelnuts, almonds, and pistachios, as well as coconut shreds and chocolate sprinkles. Dippings comprise melted Belgian chocolate—dark, milk, and white—into which a pop may be immersed, half-dipped, drizzled, or double-dipped.
For my tasting, I chose two popSorbetti and one popGelato. My first selection was lemon, the flavor by which I gauge all sorbetti and ices. Its frosty burst of citrus tang refreshed my palate without overwhelming it with unwelcome sweetness. This icy lemon pop was a bracing antidote to a hot summer's day.
popSorbetti: Lemon (left) and Mango (right)
My second taste was of another fruit. Much denser than the lemon, the mango popSorbetto had a mouthfeel similar to that of a frozen mango. Every bite seemed to be filled with pulp. Though its flavor and texture were true to the fruit, it was a bit sweeter than I'd normally like.
Pistachio popGelato popped with pistachios, half-dipped with dark chocolate
I hadn't any idea I'd saved the best for last. My final sample was an exquisite pistachio popGelato, popped with chopped pistachios, and half-dipped with dark chocolate. Wow! The crunchiness of the nuts and chocolate combined harmoniously with the silkiness of the nutty gelato it enveloped. Best of all, it wasn't too sweet. It's hard to imagine a better frozen treat on a stick.
popbar
5 Carmine Street (SW corner Sixth Av), West Village, Manhattan (map)
There's another merger about to take place on Wall Street: Milk Street Cafe, a popular restaurant and corporate catering company in Boston's Financial District, launches its new venture in New York's Financial District tomorrow. And Milk Street is going public, so to speak, by inviting everyone to attend the morning's Opening Bell ceremony for complimentary cookies and coffee from 10:00 till 11:00 in the Trump Building at 40 Wall Street.
After 30 years of success on Milk Street, founder Marc Epstein saw an opportunity to broker his gourmet fare on Wall Street. His new restaurant opens one month after the SBA named him Massachusetts Small Business Person of the Year. Marc and his wife, Beth, welcomed the press to a private preview earlier this month. Having spent five years of my career in this building, I couldn't resist the opportunity for a "homecoming."
Marc Epstein talks about Milk Street Cafe's Wall Street opening
Like its Boston counterpart, the New York menu offers considerable diversity. Unlike the Beantown location, however, the Gotham space is massive: a 23,000-square-foot food hall, featuring a 15,000-square-foot area comprising three kitchens. Inspired by Eataly, the food hall concept affords a wide variety of stations and speciality counters to suit an extensive array of tastes.
Beth Epstein describes the new Milk Street Cafe
Milk Street Cafe's Food Hall
Milk Street Cafe's food hall features made-to-order breakfasts, made-from-scratch breads, desserts and pastries, a pasta bar, Asian specialties, a sushi bar, two create-your-own salad bars (one vegetarian, one not), homemade soups, a grill, a rotisserie, and a carving station. The wide-ranging menu is the brainchild of Executive Chef Steven Mettle (formerly the Executive Chef at AIG).
Don't look for cheeseburgers here, however—everything is kosher. All fish and produce are processed in the kitchen; vegetables are "locally sourced if possible, and organic when available," explained Chef Mettle. Pictured below are a few tempting samples:
Bruschetta
Sweet Pea Risotto with English Pea Purée
The diverse culinary team includes chefs trained in Asian specialities. I sampled some of the tasty Eastern comestibles of sushi chef Eugene Lee and wok chef Allen Ong.
Nigirizushi
Yellowtail and Salmon Sashimi
California Rolls
Makizushi
Hong Kong Pan-fried Noodles with Stir-fried Shiitake and Baby Shanghai Bok Choy & Vegetable Spring Roll with Sriracha Mayonnaise
Of course, something smooth had to accompany all that. We were treated to three rich beverages.
Top to Bottom: Chocolate Chip Mocha Frappe, Strawberry-Banana Smoothie, Vanilla Bean Creme
"Our emphasis is on the best food and the best hospitality," says Marc Epstein, "We believe that customer service is paramount and we want to create the best experience possible." Décor plays a major role in that experience. The Epsteins spent a year-and-a-half renovating the existing Art Deco interior—vacated six months earlier by Mangia—and adding updated appointments to yield a style known as "Hollywood Regency."
Rather than displaying stock tickers and other distractions, the dining areas offer a relaxing escape for bulls and bears alike. With a seating capacity of 150, "we wanted to create a respite," Beth Epstein told me. To that end, a large mural by Shanee Epstein (Marc's sister) adorns the rear dining section. Affectionately called the restaurant's "Monet," this work also serves as the backdrop for the company logo.
Shanee Epstein's "Monet"
Milk Street Cafe's opening will also introduce some innovations to the Big Apple. A couple of firsts include sophisticated whirlpool Produce Soak sinks to wash fruits and vegetables, as well as FLAT table bases (from Australia) that use bungee cords to level and stabilize eating surfaces. In addition, clerks will use nifty handheld checkout devices called Line Bustersto expedite credit card payments. Why can't other restaurants adopt this sort of technology?
I enjoyed my 40 Wall homecoming. Things have changed for the better over the decades. As I recall, back in the '80s, the only places for food in this building were the company cafeteria and 40 Below, in the basement. I wish there had been a place like Milk Street Cafe.
Milk Street Cafe
40 Wall Street (between William & Broad Sts), Financial District, Manhattan (map)
Comestiblab: Were you aware that 40 Wall Street was, very briefly, the world's tallest building? When the 70-story tower opened in May, 1930, plans showed its 927 feet rising two feet higher than the soon-to-be-completed Chrysler Building.
Walter Chrysler had other plans, however. His architect, William Van Alen, designed a stainless steel spire that was furtively assembled and bolted onto the crown of his skyscraper, rendering it the world's tallest at 1,048 feet—a title it surrendered just 11 months later to the Empire State Building.
Junior's has a new neighbor. Last Thursday, Denver-based Smashburger made its New York premiere in Fort Greene, Brooklyn—just three days before the fourth anniversary of its debut in the Mile High City.
What's different about this burger chain? For one thing, it's a national enterprise with local influences. This store, for example, serves a Brooklyn smashburger, a Brooklyn Dog, and local beer from Brooklyn Brewery. What else is different? Tom Ryan, the company's founder and chief concept officer, explains:
Tom Ryan discusses the new Smashburger in Brooklyn
Get ready …
Get set …
Smash!
"Ten seconds, metal-to-metal."
Brooklyn smashburger (⅓ lb "smash" portion)
I had to order the Brooklyn ($5.99, ⅓ lb "smash"/$6.99, ½ lb "big smash"), a 100% Certified Angus Beef burger surmounted by grilled pastrami, Kraft Swiss cheese, pickles, onion, and yellow mustard on a pretzel bun. Individually, the burger's components may seem at home in Brooklyn, but, not fuh nuttin, most Brooklynites would never add cheese to their pastrami. Nevertheless, this savory combination of flavors was quite delicious and incredibly juicy! It's a burger fit for Kings. (County, that is.)
Pretzel bun
To accompany my Brooklyn smashburger, I ordered the healthful-sounding Veggie Frites ($2.99)—asparagus spears, carrot sticks, and green beans, flash-fried for 45 seconds, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Inspired by Chinese stir-fry, these veggies are a welcome departure from the usual burger-related sides.
Brooklyn smashburger with Veggie Frites
My next taste was of a hamburger I shared with a fellow writer. The Las Vegas-inspired Sin City smashburger lived up to its moniker. Served on an egg bun, its sinful toppings comprised fried egg, applewood smoked bacon, melted American cheese, grilled and haystack onions, and smash sauce (a blend of mayo, mustard, sweet relish, and a little lemon juice). I confess, this was a sinfully tasty burger.
From Las Vegas: The Sin City smashburger
While the burgers may be a smash, how does that name figure into their preparation? Tom Ryan explains:
Tom Ryan explains the smashburger name
Owing to their cooking method ("ten seconds, metal-to-metal"), as well as possible health concerns, smashburgers are served somewhere between medium and medium-well, but can be ordered well-done. I prefer my burgers rare, but, alas, that option is not available.
Spicy Baja Chicken Sandwich with a small cup of smash sauce
As if those sizable burgers hadn't been enough, I also tried the grilled Spicy Baja chicken sandwich ($6.99). (The grilled option sounded a bit more healthful than the crispy alternative.) Served with pepper jack cheese, guacamole, lettuce, tomato, onion, spicy chipotle mayo, and fresh jalapeños within a spicy chipotle bun, this was a genuinely spicy sandwich. I especially enjoyed the way the guacamole complemented the heat of the other ingredients. Inasmuch as I liked the chicken, however, I preferred the burgers.
Oreo Häagen-Dazs Milkshake
To end on a sweet note, I slurped a Häagen-Dazs milkshake. Though available in the usual flavors—vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry—these shakes become veritable desserts when Oreos, Butterfinger, or Nutter Butter bars are added. My Oreo milkshake was creamy and smooth, an indulgent means by which to exceed my calorie quota. While I normally avoid such rich treats, I finished this one with far greater gusto than I care to admit.
Double BBQ, Bacon & Cheese smashburger
As Tom Ryan told me, "our goal is to put great tasting burgers back in people's lives." Has he succeeded? Let's just say the mere thought of a smashburger makes me salivate.
During the week of June 6-12, the NYC Department of Health will offer fitness events to promote BeFitNYC, a citywide campaign to encourage a healthy, active lifestyle using the Big Apple as a big gym.
The events are free and open to the public. Please click the image below to view the schedule.
The ninth Queens…A Taste of the World took place Tuesday, 10 May in the Caesars Club at Citi Field. Beyond celebrating the borough's gastronomic variety, this annual event raises critical funds for Entrepreneur Space (E-Space) Incubator, a partnership between the Queens Economic Development Corporation and Mi Kitchen es su Kitchen®. This innovative project provides commercial kitchens, small offices, and classrooms to emerging businesses and organizations. In addition to space, clients can avail themselves of business counseling, technical assistance, and networking opportunities—all at a reasonable cost.
And now, Queens…A Taste of the World through the lens and palate of Comestiblog:
The Venue:
Citi Field, Flushing Meadows Corona Park
The Appetizers and Entrées:
Among my favorite starters was Gabbana's Ceviche, a seafood mix in a red spicy mojo.
Gabbana's Ceviche
Chef Jimmy Canora's Spice Seared Filet Mignon Carpaccio made Valentino's On The Green an estimable contender for the "Best Appetizer" award.
Valentino's On The Green: Spice Seared Filet Mignon Carpaccio
La Fusta: A Taste of Argentina
La Fusta's Matambre (veal roll) was helped with a good dose of chimichurri. Though a bit less interesting, their chorizo (above, left) was tastier.
Vetro by Russo's on the Bay served a delicious Yellowfin Tuna, topped with a fresh fig and a sauce of balsamic vinegar and honey.
Vetro: Tonno Con Fichi (Yellowfin Tuna with Figs)
One of the most interesting sample plates came from eXo: a deviled egg, a homemade pickled potato chip, and an "unwrapped" dolma served on a bed of homemade tzatziki.
Although Pop Diner's Plátano Relleno received the event's "Best Appetizer" award (see below), I thought their other offerings were superior. To wit, I found the slow-roasted pork with Latin seasonings—accentuated with a hint of sour orange, and served with chimichurri atop jalapeño corn cakes—to be tastier. Even more delicious, however, were the beef short ribs in Cabernet sauce, served over mashed potatoes, and topped with crispy fried onions—I asked for seconds!
Pop Diner: Latin Roast Pork and Short Ribs of Beef
It's hard to imagine a more attractive sandwich than the one from Leo's Latticini (Mama's of Corona): peppered ham, salami, and fresh mozzarella piled high in a sesame-seed hero, together with roasted peppers and mushrooms, topped with a slice of pepperoni and an olive.
Leo's Latticini: Peppered ham, salami, and mozzarella hero
A sandwich such as the one above goes well with pickles—especially hot-and-spicy ones. Using his great grandmother's recipe, Michigan-native Bob McClure and his brother, Joe, started McClure's Pickles five years ago. While the company has a location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, the main manufacturing plant is in Troy, Michigan.
Combine fresh lime wedges with sugar and muddle well. Add Cachaça and shake well. Serve in a rocks glass filled with ice.
The aforementioned McClure's Pickles created a piquant Bloody Mary Mixer by combining leftover spicy pickle juice with tomato juice and black pepper.
McClure's Bloody Mary
McClure's Bloody Mary recipe:
4 oz McClure's Bloody Mary Mixer
2 oz vodka
Pour into rocks glass over ice.
And a few wines:
Left to Right: Mionetto Prosecco Brut, St. Supéry Sauvignon Blanc, Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir, MontGras Antu Ninquén Cabernet-Carménère
The Desserts:
Sherry Rousso calls her short cakes "reponsibly healthy" because they contain no eggs, no cream, and no butter. The chocolate, spiced, and fruited confections from Sherry's Short Cakes are as delicious as they are healthful.
Sherry's Short Cakes
Though Debbie Brenner's treats from Las Delicias Pattiserie are gluten free, they didn't taste that way.
Las Delicias: Gluten-free goodies
Gotta Eat Sweets offered their Truffipops, a fusion of truffle and brownie.
Gotta Eat Sweets: Truffipops
Pilar de Guzman won top dessert honors for Bonne Fête Baking (see below) with her signature Date & Walnut Thins (called "Food for the Gods" in the Philippines). The flavors were vaguely reminiscent of butterscotch.
Chef Marcus Samuelsson is an internationally acclaimed chef who was born in Ethiopia and reared by adoptive parents in Gothenburg, Sweden. He has been celebrated as one of "The Great Chefs of America" by the Culinary Institute of America, and honored by the James Beard Foundation as "Rising Star Chef" (1999), "Best Chef: New York City" (2003), and for "Best International Cookbook" (2007). In 2009, Chef Samuelsson served as guest chef at the White House for the Obama administration's first state dinner. Last December, he opened his newest restaurant, Red Rooster, in Harlem.
Chef Anita Lo, a second generation Chinese-American, grew up in Birmingham, Michigan. Having earned numerous accolades for her inventive contemporary American cuisine, she is one of the most respected female chefs in the United States. After she opened annisa (an Arabic word meaning "women") in the West Village in 2000, FOOD & WINE named Lo one of ten "Best New Chefs in America" (2001), while the Village Voice declared her to be the "Best New Restaurant Chef." She was also the first challenger to defeat an Iron Chef (Mario Batali) on Food Network's Iron Chef America.
The Awards:
Best Appetizer:
Pop Diner: Plátano Relleno
Best Entrée:
Strawberry's Sports Grill: Championship Chili
Best Alcoholic Beverage:
McClure's Pickles: Spicy Bloody Mary
Best Dessert:
Bonne Fête Baking: Date & Walnut Thins
The Iconic Restaurant Awards went to Dazies and Papazzio.
The Conclusion:
The ninth annual Queens…A Taste of the World was a success. What a marvelous evening of international food sampling at Citi Field!
Queens…A Taste of the World
Citi Field 123-01 Roosevelt Avenue (126th St) Flushing, N.Y. 11368 (map)
My friends at Hallo Berlin Express asked me to help spread the word about the Ninth Avenue International Food Festival this weekend on the avenue from 42nd to 57th Streets. It's New York's oldest and largest annual food festival. (I recall attending my first one about 1980.)
Ninth Avenue International Food Festival
42nd to 57th Street (Hell's Kitchen), Manhattan
May 14-15, 2011; 12:00 Noon till 5:00 P.M. (Rain or shine)
For more than 70 years, Essex Street Market has been a source of comestibles for Manhattan's Lower East Side. It was built in 1940 by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia to move pushcarts and vendors indoors, off the teeming streets. Today, the market continues to house an eclectic mix of food purveyors within its historic walls.
The fortunes and flavors of its vendors may have changed over the decades, but now Essex Street Market itself is in jeopardy. In her blog, The Saxelby Almanac, Anne Saxelby reports that redevelopment plans call for the possibility of razing the historic building and moving the vendors elsewhere. Can we afford to lose another Lower East Side icon?
Essex Street Market
120 Essex Street (NE corner Delancey St), Lower East Side, Manhattan (map)
By train: to Essex St; to Delancey St By bus: M9, M14A
For further information about Essex Street Market and how you can help, please visit the sites below:
By submitting your name and email address, you'll be allowed to download Favorite Healthy Recipes, a free digital book from FOOD & WINE. The catch: you'll receive a subscription to the (forthcoming) daily e-newsletter "Food & Wine Daily," as well as periodic offers from American Express Publishing. Be sure to read the privacy statement.
To download your free e-book, click on the link below:
Mark your calendar for Queens…A Taste of the World, a one-night-only foodie event taking place Tuesday, 10 May, from 6:00 P.M. till 9:00 P.M. at Citi Field in Flushing Meadows Corona Park. Now in its ninth year, this gastronomic journey brings together the international flavors of the borough's best restaurants. Celebrity Chefs Marcus Samuelsson and Anita Lo will host the event, and television personality Tamsen Fadal of PIX 11 will serve as Master of Ceremonies. In addition, Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson will share her wine-pairing expertise.
This comestible extravaganza will feature tasting-sized portions that showcase the ethnic diversity of Queens. Owing to the various pockets of world culture in this borough of 2.2 million, the cooking tends to be more authentic than that found in Manhattan, and often rivals the cuisine of the particular homeland.
While Queens…A Taste of the World is a celebration of cultural diversity and gastronomic variety, it is also a key source of financial support for the Queens Economic Development Corporation (QEDC). This event raises critical funds for Entrepreneur Space (E-Space) Incubator Project, which provides entrepreneurs with kitchen facilities and other resources to help them launch their businesses. Situated in Long Island City, the incubator is home to most of New York's celebrated food trucks and mobile bakeries.
Tickets are priced at $100 for one, or $150 for a pair ($185 after 4 May), and may be purchased online by sending email to events@queensnyc.org, by calling Michelle Stoddart at (718) 263-0546, or by mailing a completed registration form.
Queens…A Taste of the World
Citi Field 123-01 Roosevelt Avenue (126th St) Flushing, N.Y. 11368 (map)
The end has arrived for a Florida citrus institution in the Tampa Bay area. Citrus Country Groves served its last orange ice cream yesterday, before shutting its doors forever. I visited the Clearwater store during its final hours.
Citrus Country's orange is the best soft-serve ice cream I've ever had the pleasure to consume. Made with real orange juice, replete with bits of pulp, this frozen citrus swirl is a most refreshing antidote to the Florida heat. And it actually tastes like orange—what a concept!
For more than 60 years, citrus cognoscenti have flocked to the two stores for their prized Indian River fruit and fruit products. The original opened in 1946 as Orange Blossom Groves in Seminole; the second opened three years later on U.S. Route 19 in Clearwater. When founder Al Repetto sold the business to Jim Guedry in 2005, the groves were rechristened. But all that is juice under the spigot now. At the Clearwater site, the citrus store will soon bear new fruit as an automotive dealership.
Citrus Country Groves (closed)
18200 US 19 N (SW corner Belleair Rd) Clearwater, FL 33764-6513 (map)
The Asian Pacific Americans, a volunteer employee organization at NBC Universal and its partners at azix inc., together with the Japanese American Association, the New York Restaurant Organization (NYSRA), FEED, and the restaurant industry, have organized the Dine Out for Japan Relief campaign taking place at various restaurants in the greater New York area. From Wednesday, 23 March through Wednesday, 30 March, participating restaurants will donate a portion of their proceeds from breakfast, lunch, and dinner to the Red Cross to assist the tsunami relief efforts in Japan.
Please visit the websites below for more information and a list of participating restaurants:
It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water. Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River. Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline. Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair. The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome. Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.
The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal. Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles. But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way. What was the sauce on my salmon? Something a little buttery? Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese? I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.
Insalata Capricciosa
For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon"). Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden. My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary. The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards. (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!) For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.
Broiled Salmon Dijon
The wine list had its own problems. It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings. We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out. We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses. This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage. Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner. We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.
Chicken al Limone
At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of. Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening. (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.) Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?
Homemade Chocolate Cake
There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion. As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95. For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars. Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however. Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.
As a food writer, I often receive requests to mention some product or event on my blog. Happily, I'm able to manage most such solicitations with the single click of a mouse. Occasionally, however, I find something very appealing in my electronic mailbox. For instance, a recent invitation to a soirée that included gourmet food, artisanal beer, and a membership to a unique dining club, was a food blogging perquisite I couldn't resist.
The event, held at Hell's Kitchen's Albert Hall Tavern, featured eight tasting-sized courses, each paired with a different libation. Its purpose was to introduce me and like-minded food enthusiasts to [exploration] dining, a members-only community that offers 50% discounts at some of New York's "secrets to be discovered." Affording various additional benefits, the club "offers New Yorkers a reason to go out and explore their city," explained its founder and CEO Alex Bartosch. Let the exploration begin …
Raw Bar: Malpaque (left) and Blue Point (right)
Let's kick off our dining exploration with a review of the evening's comestibles, beer, and tequila. Tequila? ¡Sí! Our tasting commenced with a raw bar, comprising Malpaques and Blue Points (from the nearby Sea Breeze Fish Market), paired with a sample of Patrón Silver and a subsequent taste of the triple-distilled, slightly aged Gran Patrón Platinum. (Were you aware that a co-founder of Paul Mitchell Systems—John Paul DeJoria—was also one of the founders of The Patrón Spirits Company?) Produced from 100% Weber blue agave, both tequilas are smooth and sweet, and have a peppery finish. With oysters, they're a potent alternative to Chablis, and a marvelous way to start an evening!
Screaming Oysters from Hell
Deep-fried oysters followed the raw variety. The spicy-hot Screaming Oysters from Hell is one of Albert Hall Tavern's signature appetizers. Executive chef Bill Seleno kindles an insidious fire with Sambal Oelek, and presents his infernal [s]hellfish atop slices of sweet pineapple to produce an underworldly flavor sensation. If this is hell, I'm liable to commit many additional sins. The mollusks were paired with Stone Pale Ale, Stone Brewing Company's "Southern California interpretation of the classic British pale ale style." Light and hoppy, this ale kept the oysters' flames under control.
Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg
It was back to raw for our next course, Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg. Though perhaps a bit salty, this dish was absolutely delicious. (I should admit, however, to being very partial to tuna.) It was accompanied by Estrella Galicia, a somewhat light lager, considered by some to be northern Spain's equivalent of Coors. Regardless of comparisons with Rocky Mountain brews, it goes great with fish.
Deviled Braised Short Rib with Horseradish and Mustard Seed
Next, the Deviled Braised Short Rib with Horseradish and Mustard Seed added some meat to the menu. Served on toast, its tangy and spicy flavors were enhanced by the sweetness of Brouwerij Bosteels's Tripel Karmeliet, a three-grain (wheat, oats, and barley) Belgian beer, brewed using a 17th-century recipe. Gentle on the palate, it adds body to any dish it accompanies.
Pickled Sardines with Fennel Pollen Meyer Lemon Cream
We returned to the sea for our next course. To be honest, the Pickled Sardines with Fennel Pollen Meyer Lemon Cream was my least favorite dish of the evening. I'm not fond of fennel, and I didn't find these sardines particularly compelling. Overall, this sample from the bar menu wasn't bad, but I'd probably not order it on a future visit. Nevertheless, Gaffel Kölsch from Cologne, Germany was the perfect foil for this preparation. The Becker Brothers brew is rich, somewhat light, yet slightly bitter at the same time. It's another fine beer to pair with fish.
Grilled Radicchio with Trifoline Cheese and Butternut Squash Carpaccio
Our salad arrived next. I could readily taste the garlic in the Grilled Radicchio with Trifoline Cheese and Butternut Squash Carpaccio. Chef Seleno's combination of the foregoing elements yielded a harmonious mix of flavors. The sweetness of the butternut squash partnered well with that of La Brasserie de St-Sylvestre's Gavroche French Red Ale. The fruity sweetness of this Bière sur Lie (beer on its lees) comes from a special top-fermenting yeast that produces a re-fermentation in the bottle.
Steamed Mussels with Charred Rosemary and Black Garlic
I should like to introduce the next course by mentioning that I typically have little inclination to order mussels. But oh, those garlic aromas wafting from Chef Seleno's Steamed Mussels with Charred Rosemary and Black Garlic! Perhaps owing to the dominance of the fermented (black) garlic, I found these mollusks to be exceptionally flavorful. (I made good use of the crusty bread to finish whatever broth remained.) Appropriately, they were paired with a German Pilsner that did not attempt to make any powerful statements. Radeberger, a highly effervescent pale golden lager with a hoppy bitterness, is a very good palate cleanser that could also serve as a fine companion to German Würste.
Our final course, Roasted Suckling Pig with Maple Rum, was the evening's pièce de résistance. It was tender, succulent, and flavorful—everything I'd expect from a suckling pig. Any initial concerns over the sweetness of the maple rum were dispelled with my first bite. As delicious as it was, however, I found that just the lightest sprinkle of salt added the perfect finishing touch.
Roasted Suckling Pig with Maple Rum
What beer to serve with such an exquisite dish? Something with strong flavors of hops? Should it be sweet or dry? The answers appeared in a bottle of Hop Rod Rye from California's Bear Republic. This hoppy Healdsburg IPA is brewed with 18% rye malt to give it a dry spiciness that is delicious with or without food. What a marvelous beer with which to finish!
While Champagne and chocolates may sound like a romantic pairing, their respective dry and sweet flavors don't necessarily make the best partners. It may surprise you to learn that sweet wines are a much better match for your sweets. Today I'd like to share my favorite with you.
There is perhaps no better partner to chocolate than Banyuls, a fortified ruby-red dessert wine from the Roussillon region in the South of France (French Catalonia). Its style is often compared with that of a Port. Unlike its Portuguese counterpart, however, Banyuls is made from Grenache Noir, or red Grenache, a dominant grape in Southern Rhône wines. With light fortification from a clear grape spirit, the fermentation is halted prematurely—a process known as mutage—to allow the wine to retain its natural sweetness. Because of this, Banyuls falls into the category of vins doux naturels (VDN), or "naturally sweet wines." Having aromas of blackberry jam and hints of vanilla, Banyuls shares the sweetness of a Port, but does so with softer tannins. It's a rich, silky wine with a spicy finish that pairs beautifully with chocolate truffles.
Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage has become Valentine's Day tradition for me. (Rimage, incidentally, is a Catalan word meaning vintage.) The wine is aged a minimum of two years in the bottle to yield considerable depth. It's not only perfect with chocolates, but also as a segue to the calorie-burning dessert that typically follows.
If you remember my Valentine's Day post from 2009, you'll recall how much I enjoy Fauchon's chocolates, and how I lamented the closing of their Manhattan outpost. With that in mind, you can undoubtedly imagine my surprise and delight to discover those familiar Parisian sweets at The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English. Though The Plaza Hotel's subterranean food bazaar may be a far cry from the erstwhile salon de thé on Park Avenue, at least it's a local purveyor of Fauchon's wares.
The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English
The Plaza Hotel, Concourse Level 1 West 59th Street (SW corner FIfth Av), Midtown Manhattan
The nation's largest trade and consumer wine event took place this weekend at the twentieth annual Boston Wine Expo. Some 300 international and domestic wineries participated in this year's Grand Tasting. With more than 1,800 wines to sample, it's possible I missed a couple.
As was the case last year, the 2011 show was more modest than the extravaganzas of the last decade. Once again, I was surprised and disappointed by the meager French representation. Tasting tables for Bordeaux, Bourgogne, and Champagne were conspicuously absent, leaving the Loire and Rhône valleys as standard-bearers of the drapeau tricolore.
Featured speakers included Ray Isle (keynote) of Food & Wine; Gloria Maroti Frazee from Wine Spectator; Leslie Sbrocco, award-winning author of "Adventures of a Thirsty Girl;" and others.
Boston Wine Expo
Seaport World Trade Center 200 Seaport Boulevard Boston, MA 02210-2031 (map)
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